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Thread: '93 F-150 build

  1. #316
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Clarke how much you want for that 4" lift kit with no springs? And is it possible to lengthen the radius arms or should I just throw the drop brackets on and forget about it?

    I don't want to swap to any axle that would give me anything other than 5X5.5" bolt pattern. I spent too much damn time finding a single alloy wheel to match the three that my truck came with.

    Edit: also looking into disk brake swap for the 8.8 if anybody knows a solid method. Apparently 05-06 Econolines and E-150's came with disk brake 8.8's with the 5X5.5" bolt pattern, but I doubt I'll find one of those for something I'd be willing to spend.

    Also have plans to do the F-350 brake booster and master cylinder swap. My brakes suck huge donkey dick. Worse than those terrible looking front AK grips.
    Last edited by Sparling; 07-04-2010 at 02:29 AM.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  2. #317
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    People have lengthened the radius arms, but for a truck that sees a fair amount of street use I would not trust them. I would put the drop down brackets on and call it a day.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
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  3. #318
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    my truck with 4.10s and 35s got 13 on the highway. 3.55s and 35s i got 15 once on 55-65 mph two lanes. The power with the 4.10s and less strain on trans were nice though. one thing that helped my mileage as much as anything was correcting the speedo so the truck's comp knew true sped.

    I've got 3.55s for the front if you want/need them.

    Not sure how 33s will be relative to 35s, but keep in mind that a gear swap doesnt hurt you mpg always.
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  4. #319
    Teaching America's youth RCcola55's Avatar
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    pm me.
    Ryan Clarke
    (214)695-7901

  5. #320
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Anybody know anything about hydroboosted brakes? That seems like a solid way to get really strong brakes. Mine currently suck and I can't come close to locking up 33s. What I'm wondering is exactly where you tap into the steering pump for the brake booster. Would it be a good idea to go with new parts or can I just get me some pick n pull parts?
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  6. #321
    Flyin' the Hindenburg 2.0 DRAGOONRANCH's Avatar
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    I believe there are pumps out there that already have ports for it, but not completely sure about the fords. I have heard nothing but good things about it being done. One of these days I would like to add it, but will try and add it to the second pump I want to add for rear steer, so this project is still a long ways out.
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  7. #322
    Respek TdmayfieldIV's Avatar
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    I could be wrong here but I don't think you need to upgrade anything, just fix what is wrong. Doesn't your pedal go all the way to the floor randomly when you are driving without braking at all?

  8. #323
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    Get your current system in proper order, maybe do some tbird front calipers, rear discs.
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  9. #324
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV View Post
    I could be wrong here but I don't think you need to upgrade anything, just fix what is wrong. Doesn't your pedal go all the way to the floor randomly when you are driving without braking at all?
    No, my brakes work fine. The only thing wrong is there's a little air in the lines and it's squishy sometimes, otherwise my brakes are in perfect working order, they just aren't good enough. I just had the front brakes done last fall.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  10. #325
    Old school badass Seth's Avatar
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    get the air out of the lines.
    Seth Stewart '04
    2000 Suburban DD
    1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
    1998 GMC pickup - sold
    2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
    1975 Scout - TBD
    1976 Scout - parts truck
    1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
    196? Scout 800 - 302 roller

  11. #326
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    like seth said get the air out, if there is air in the system the brakes will not function properly

  12. #327
    Teaching America's youth RCcola55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV View Post
    I could be wrong here but I don't think you need to upgrade anything, just fix what is wrong. Doesn't your pedal go all the way to the floor randomly when you are driving without braking at all?
    thats your brakes that do that!

    Sparling, as everyone said get the air out and if you still arent happy you can switch to the f-350 booster and master cylinder
    Ryan Clarke
    (214)695-7901

  13. #328
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    With a modded stock pump or a PSC unit, Pigpen can lock up all 4 tires up to ~35 MPH with an unmodified hydroboost and master cylinder. IMO, worth the investment but, not at this point in time for your truck.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  14. #329
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    After bleeding also check to adjust the thing in your rear drum brakes. If this is not adjusted brakes can feel very soft. This happens in the klogger after deep water/mud crossings.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  15. #330
    Respek TdmayfieldIV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCcola55 View Post
    thats your brakes that do that!

    Sparling, as everyone said get the air out and if you still arent happy you can switch to the f-350 booster and master cylinder
    They have never done that to me. You just have to be a man to stop my truck

    They are that bad because
    both rear drums are scored so bad that they'll hold pennies
    both front disks are scored real bad too

    believe me they are a ton better after new pads in the rear.

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