I guess I am a little ambitious. Nothing is really wrong/broken with it at the moment. Yes, you have to eat your spinach to use the brakes and it looks like arse but overall it has performed well for what it is. I did very well at k2 (meaning I didn't break anything) because I didn't do half of the trails. I would have done more trails if I had the axles to survive the 6.6 liters of fury, 35"s and lo range on sticky rock. According to fsb, 35"s are the max tires you can safely run on stock axles.
I want to step up to the big trails but i don't want to cut corners to get there. I also don't want to waste money on half ton bullshiat if i am eventually going to one tons. See my dillema?
So the solution is to save money and buy the axles, then build them to my standards before I put them in?
After your bollocking I have revised the list
Before Clayton:
-Roll Cage (I realize this might not be at the top of some people's list (sharpe) but i have seen how flimsy my roof is and it is a good investment)
-Tbi
-Weld 9"
-buy plenty of spare shafts (I have one complete set at the moment)
-fix heater
-correctly wire e-fans
-Factory trac-lock front?
Last edited by TdmayfieldIV; 07-07-2010 at 03:48 PM.
Weld rear, leave front open. Everything else on that list sounds good.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
slipping auto tranny, open diff, you'll be fine. And how do you know you're gonna break something until it happens once or twice? Especially if you have spares on hand? I wheeled 35s on a stock (open) toyody axle for a while without issue. The locker is what breaks axles