you can leave the column. just make shure it is in neutral so you can steer when you take the things out.
you can leave the column. just make shure it is in neutral so you can steer when you take the things out.
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
Here's the parts list I've thought through as far as new parts for my manual swap.
Flywheel: OE replacement from summit (external balance, 11 inch clutch, 167 tooth)
Pilot bearing: National Brand from Oreillys
Throwout bearing: National Brand from Oreillys
Clutch: Centerforce LMC 11 inch from summit
Pressure plate: Zoom brand 11 inch from summit
Anybody know of anything up there that has a reputation of poor quality or that it won't work in this application?
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
centerforce clutches have a rep for being very on or off, zoom clutches arent too bad, but for you apllication i would just go with a performance parts store clutch. Also, from what i have read if you have the option, get the largest dia. clutch you can.
Ryan Clarke![]()
(214)695-7901
what transmission are you putting in?
...
11 inch is the biggest clutch I could find
The mazda 5 speed or the ZF. I just want to keep overdrive since I do a lot of highway miles. If I swap a M5OD in, then a ZF would be an afternoon swap, I'd just need a new crossmember so I could easily do that down the road. One of the write ups I read said a ZF swap could use the same driveshafts as an E4OD so there wouldn't be the added cost of lengthening or shortening anything.
Where are the junkyards in the BCS area? If they're open tomorrow I'm going to go look to see if they have anything.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
I had to change driveshats going from aod to zf, but that was 2wd
...
I had the centerforce clutch (clutch and pressure plate afaik...not sure why you're ordering them separate) in front of the mazda 5 spd on my 95 F150. It was a great clutch, and took a beating over several years of highway and mudding, and a couple trips to llano river. It was a bit tighter than the stock clutch, but I wouldn't call it "on/off".
Last edited by mudtoy67; 01-16-2011 at 03:58 PM.
BDR
Whatever goes in is staying until after college at least. My truck is standard cab short bed with a weak 5.0 so the transmission shouldn't see much abuse.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
You mentioned you were going to get a master/slave set up from the junk yard, if not you need to put that on your list plus the hose that goes in between them (the hose is like $30 at O'reilly's)
For my money, I would just buy a pressure plate and clutch from O'reilly's, it's easier to take back if it is wrong and probably cheaper. BDR had a good experience with his centerforce, but I have heard of people having problems. I myself would do not think they are much better and just more complicated.
As for the M5OD vs the ZF, the ZF is obviously the stronger and better trans, it will have steel synchros for first where the Mazda will be brass. Another thing to consider is the Mazda has an internal clutch slave cylinder where as I believe the ZF is external, this means if it goes out the ZF you can just change, the mazda you have to pull the trans.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
The mazda trans I had was fine. I rebuilt it once cause I lost second gear, which turned out to be unnecessary because it just needed a shifter bushing. Since I already had the trans out, I went ahead with it. For all the beating I had done the brass on the synchros still looked new. I would have been comforatble wheeling that trans a lot longer.
For the price a ZF goes for I could never justify the swap. Since you're buying a trans anyway, you could go either way.
BDR
Couple other things from Karl's post...
Don't get junkyard clutch master/slave. You'll just end up kicking yourself when you replace them early. It's just not worth the few bucks you save. ESPECIALLY don't get a used slave if you go with the mazda trans. A new interal slave is worth the cost versus having to drop the trans again.
I did have good luck with the Centerforce. That being said, when I rebuilt the trans I went back with a LUK brand clutch. There a bit cheaper and I'm told they make Centerforce's clutch plates anyway.
BDR
The Centerforce 'Dual Friction' is what I had with the 350, and it was very hard to keep it from being an 'on/off' switch at times. The Centerforce II I have behind the 454 now is much better. Easier pedal and not nearly as 'grabby'.
I don't know what the cost difference would be between an O'Reilys and Centerforce to say if the cost would be justified in the increased quality. For a tired, small'ish' engine, I don't know that I would spend the extra on the centerforce unless it was very close in price to the parts house brand. The way that I 'build' things is way off base with everyone else doing the vast majority of the work for me nowdays, as it's much easier to drop an order at summit than head to the parts store to grab stuff.![]()
I guess I'm looking at rebuilding the E4OD. I'm going to order a service manual for the transmission, and a rebuild kit from somewhere. I was looking at the TCI kit, I read some posts on different forums saying their stuff was good with the diesel crowd of E4OD users. Anybody have any other suggestions? I already have an almost brand new torque converter that I'll be trading in on warranty when I have the transmission out just so I can have a brand new one with no dirt from sitting at my farm for 6 months. I don't think I'm going to do any of the regular upgrades people do with the E4OD except maybe a solenoid pack and a shift kit.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat