I wouldn't ditch the internal cooler. It helps warm the transmission up quicker in cold weather to reduce wear and still does provide some cooling capacity year round. Case is point, my screwcab came with both an internal and external cooler from the factory. It was built from the ground up to tow so keeping the trans cool was a top priority.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
Do any of you chevy guys have the off-road design draglink made out of tube that has the bends in it to clear the engine crossmember? If so can you measure how far it is from the center of the draglink hole on the steering box to the center of the first bend for me?
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
i have that, but it is out at my ranch, my dad might be going out there this weekend and i can try to get him to take the measurement for you
I had one but cut it up to use the threaded ends for my new bootyfabbed draglink.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
How long does it take to change out a third member in a full floater? I know you have to take the shafts out, but do you have to do anything to it when you put a different one in? I was thinking instead of a locker, just getting a second third member with the same gears and welding it to use on the trail.
Last edited by Sparling; 03-09-2011 at 02:11 AM.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Third member or carrier?
Ya I am not sure what full floating rear you would be talking about that would have a removable third.
My 609 does, but that is beside the point.
If you are truly talking about a removable third then you have to pull the shafts, drop the d-shaft, remove the third, and RTV in the new third, bolt it back up, replace the d-shaft and axle shafts.
Not that big of a deal. Prob. take an hour in all with lube change and gasket material.
Originally Posted by jerryg79
I guess just a carrier, I'm talking about on my sterling.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
With a different carrier you have to set up the preload and backlash each time because you are changing the carrier bearings as well as you would have to find and run a separate ring gear because it would just be super crazy stupid to transfer the ring gear from the welded carrier to the open one each time.
Ya, not really feasible.
Bad idea, not realistic.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
just get a detroit... you will be happy with it on and off road
Jonathan Tate
361.676.6466
2010 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 MegaCab
2004 Jeep TJ
1992 Jeep YJ
2008 Jeep JKU
2013 Ford Explorer Sport (mama's go fast car)
detroit
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
http://www.halibrand.com/index_frames.htm problem solved!
Seth Stewart '04
2000 Suburban DD
1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
1998 GMC pickup - sold
2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
1975 Scout - TBD
1976 Scout - parts truck
1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
196? Scout 800 - 302 roller
Since the original shock mounts on my sterling hang down below the axle tube, I cut some new ones out of some 5/16" that tommy cut off his fairlead mount. Would they work better on the front of the axle tube or on top? When I mount it in my truck, there will be ~4" of lift so mounting distance shouldn't be an issue.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
If you mean "will it work better" like will the position of the shock mount effect valving efficiency then your answer is "no" either one will do exactly the same.
If you mean which one "will work better" as the better option I would always go with infront of the axle on the side of the tube, unless space is limited, and use on top of the tube as a last resort. Placing the mount on top of your axle shortens your shock length and could be limiting your suspension travel (although you will not truly know until you get it together and cycle the suspension and measure). You could also mount one shock to the front of the tube and the other to the back of the tube to limit wheel hop.
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