Who had March 14th?

[Hot Pocket]

Be careful when tightening the yoke back down. Stock 9" use a crush sleeve to set pinion bearing preload. You can upgrade the crush sleeve to solid shims though. I would just change the seal/yoke and be done with it. If you change the bearings then the pre-load has to be re-adjusted. If you do go this route then go ahead and get rid of the crush sleeve for the solid shim.

Fair enough. How likely is it that anything behind the yoke and seal need attention? I already bought the pinion seal at oreillys, but I'm going to order this: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...ge-3-7-8-.html

to replace the 9" yoke. What size is the pinion nut? 1 1/8?

Also, FWIW.. I plan on draining and changing the diff fluid in the 9 inch. I'm not 100% clear on the procedure for this. From what I've learned, I have to pull the axle shafts and the carrier. Is this true?

[85cj7]

It is not likely that anything is fooked unless of course you have reason to suspect something. Any strange vibs? noises, like growling/whining? If not then don't mess with it.

the pinion nut is 1 1/16", I would get a new one while your at it.

Stock 9" don't have a drain plug so you have two ways of doing it as far as I can figure.

Option 1: remove one side brakes and pull out the axle shaft. Then jack up the vehicle so the end with the axle shaft removed is now significantly lower. This will drain the majority of the fluid out although a bit will be caught in the lower diff hump. Reinstall axle shaft and brake on one side and re-fill.

Option 2: Remove both side brakes and pull both shafts. Then drop the d-shaft and pull the third member. Then pump the fluid out of sop it up with sponge/rag/whatever. Then reinstall third member, d-shaft, axle shafts, brakes and re-fill.

I would go with option 1: unless of course you have extra work to do anyway. Like changing brake pads, fixing a leaking third member gasket, or installing that solid shim for the pinion preload I was talking about. So to answer your question, No, it is not true you HAVE to pull the shafts and the third.

[StevenAg03]

Option 1: remove one side brakes and pull out the axle shaft. Then jack up the vehicle so the end with the axle shaft removed is now significantly lower. This will drain the majority of the fluid out although a bit will be caught in the lower diff hump. Reinstall axle shaft and brake on one side and re-fill.

this sounds like a terrible idea

[85cj7]

this sounds like a terrible idea

Why?
Perfectly safe.
1-jack up vehicle
2-remove rear wheels
3-place frame on jackstands
4-move jack to one side below spring
5-compress spring on one side until right before vehicle lifts off jack stands
6-drain fluid out lower side axle tube

DONE!

Tell me again.

[mudtoy67]

Fair enough. How likely is it that anything behind the yoke and seal need attention? I already bought the pinion seal at oreillys, but I'm going to order this: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...ge-3-7-8-.html

to replace the 9" yoke. What size is the pinion nut? 1 1/8?

Also, FWIW.. I plan on draining and changing the diff fluid in the 9 inch. I'm not 100% clear on the procedure for this. From what I've learned, I have to pull the axle shafts and the carrier. Is this true?

Have you measured the yoke you already have? I'd be willing to bet it's already got a 1330 yoke, if not a 1330s like that one you linked.

Tell me again.

Because it's dumb.

1- You're halfway to pulling the chunk anyway
2- You're not going to get even half the oil out
3- It'll be easier to change the pinion seal/yoke on the bench
4- Because you suggested it

[85cj7]

Thanks BDR

If a pinion yoke and seal can't be changed under a truck then I don't know what we're doing anymore. That is stupid easy.

[Shaggy]

I even think that is dumb. It takes no time at all to pull a 3rd

[mudtoy67]

Thanks BDR

If a pinion yoke and seal can't be changed under a truck then I don't know what we're doing anymore. That is stupid easy.

Stupid Easy (Stoo-pid E-z) -
def. - Stuff Seacrest can do.

[stx4wheeler]

If you just swap out yokes, and don't replace the crush sleeve, you will need to crush the sleeve slightly more(ie tighten it slighlty more). It takes alot of force to do this so your gonna want the weight of the truck on the tires sitting on the ground. Don't tighen it too much of you are gonna get the bearings to tight and old bearings don't like this, or you run the risk of fawking up the crush sleeve.

Be carefull.....

[Hot Pocket]

I'm going to pull the third member anyway to seal up the leaking gasket. The rear driveshaft is already out. And yes, I ordered both the yoke and the yoke nut.

What's a crush sleeve?

[TdmayfieldIV]

Mine has a drain plug.

[bcolman]

Mine has a drain plug.

you want a cookie?

[85cj7]

I'm going to pull the third member anyway to seal up the leaking gasket. The rear driveshaft is already out. And yes, I ordered both the yoke and the yoke nut.

What's a crush sleeve?

You need to do some reading before you tackle this.


A crush sleeve is a metal disk that is placed on the pinion after the bearings which is literally crushed when you tighten the pinion yoke nut. It sets preload on the pinion bearings.
A crush sleeve is very hard to start crushing but once it starts requires less force which ca easily lead to over crushing and loosing proper preload on the bearings. Some people start crushing the sleeves in a press and then proceed to installing it is the axle.
Your dilemma is that your crush sleeve has already been crushed and you need to exactly match how tight the pinion nut is before and after you replace the nut. You need to measure the lbs/inch drag on the nut to properly do this.

Read up and Good luck.

[Sharpe]

You could get a stack of shims and match the thickness of your old crush sleeve too. This seems like the least likely way to **** it up on reassembly, though Hotpocket has dazzled me before.

[Hot Pocket]

Got a soft top off of FSB for 200 shipped