Why the **** do you think you need 2" 1/4 wall for a cage? It will be almost impossible to bend, weigh 2-3 times more tha 1.75 .120 and cost an assload. Did Tummy come up with that idea?
Why the **** do you think you need 2" 1/4 wall for a cage? It will be almost impossible to bend, weigh 2-3 times more tha 1.75 .120 and cost an assload. Did Tummy come up with that idea?
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
2" .120 is still going to cost about twice as much as 1.75 .120 because no one uses it. The smart way to buy tube is through group buys so you get a price break
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
MATERIAL
Rollcage construction material may be crew, Dom, whr, wcr mild carbon steel or 4130 chromoly.
This is what I can use, and anything over 4k pounds has to use 2" .120 wall tubing
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
where did you find that anything over 4k lbs needs 2" .120 wall, i have seen, pictures, videos and in person, many rigs that weigh over that with 1.75 cages take hard hits and everyone was fine
Well, there's a reason sam, Travis, and I are going to the EDR 200 later this year and also a reason why I'm keeping ttb and half ton rear axle.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Mine is 1.75x.120
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
I emailed Baja Racing of Texas about using 1.75" .120 wall but Extreme Desert Racing just says you need a 6 point cage with no requirements on what tube size or type you use. I'm looking at class 8 right now and in several years when I get a real job I'll move into the door slammer class. Right now the priorities are getting a working transmission and working on a roll cage and figuring out what shocks I'm going to use. Does anybody have any experience with FOA coilovers? I've read some good and some bad stuff but for what I'm doing I think they'll be okay. Thinking of 2.5 coilovers with reservoir in probably 14 inch travel. I need to figure out what spring rates and valving to use. I guess I'll finish my cage and weigh it together a better idea of what i need. Thoughts about spring rate or FOA shocks?
Last edited by Sparling; 05-07-2011 at 11:03 PM.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
First I suggest saving money and going to races
http://www.f-o-a.com/calculator.html
If you're really wanting to run FOA talk to them and see what they recommend
I found a '96 5.8/e4od/bw1356 for my truck that'll be going in very soon. Easy fix to a sluggish motor and a transmission that doesn't shift. Everything works well and is out of a wrecked truck.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Out of a Bronco? There was one like you are describing on the list.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
That's the one.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
What about the frame and body?
Ryan Clarke![]()
(214)695-7901
The guy wants too much for everything else, didn't seem worth it for a wrecked carcass
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat