I agree and you shouldn't need very thick plate either i would go with solid 1/8 or maybe 3/16Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
I agree and you shouldn't need very thick plate either i would go with solid 1/8 or maybe 3/16
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
The plan is for 2" .25 wall dom, but would 1.75" .25 wall be good enough? It would be about 11 pounds lighter, cost less and dowling already has a 1.75" die for the bender.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
I think 1.75" .250 wall would be fine, as long as you plated or added tubes between the arms. Go look at what Tum Tum's stock F250 radius arms are made of, I doubt it is 0.250" thick.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
The max wall thickness that the bender calls for is ~.13, not sure if it is up for the .25 wall.
Born to Kill
I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!
Or the person bending it for that matter.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Weren't you having trouble bending the .120 HREW last night???
Born to Kill
I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!
No, your shop floor was dirty, after I swept I had no problem
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
The ttb arm changes 21 degrees at 16" of wheel travel so the ballistic joint with 34 degrees of movement will work fine. Question is, if I go with 1.75" .25 wall tube that limits me to 1" threaded shank on the joint. Is this enough strength? I guess another option is to get the tube threaded to run a larger thread size if need be. Also getting some materials to start working on some sort of swingset steering. Might post up some drawings when I finish them.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Or a heim will work and a 1 inch shank is more than enough.
Born to Kill
I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!
what about welding the joint housing to the tube?
Ryan Clarke
(214)695-7901
I would weld the joint housing to the tube, you don't need the adjustability unless you don't build the arms the same or weld the mounts on square. Much stronger as well
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
Back to steering, Travis got me some 1.5" .25 wall DOM for steering. I want to do something real similar to the YJ and Corey 2011 KOH buggy steering setup. It uses 2 idler arms with a relay rod between them and the tie rods mount the same place as the beam does so toe in and bump steer are pretty much gone. Here's some pictures of what he did, but I want to do a single shear setup, no hydro, and strait tie rods.
Also might be ordering cut and turned beams from threat motorsports next week if I can gather some cash. I emailed solo motorsports about their price, but I'm really liking how threat motorsports welds in a new billet piece for the lower balljoint instead of moving the stock one and plating it in.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
That steering looks unnecesarilly complicated and extremely vulnerable to damage.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
And expensive....
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
All will be covered by the skid plate in the front bumper. It has to be complicated to get rid of bumpsteer and toe in. Shouldn't cost too much on top of the tube I bought, just another stock pitman arm, a couple of heims and some plate
Does anybody use heims on their steering? I need something with more articulation than the 16 degrees from a regular TRE.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
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