its really alaskan pollock, but they dye it to look like whale
its really alaskan pollock, but they dye it to look like whale
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this stuff gives some nasty paper cuts
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XD400/4
now to figure out why the alternator is screaming over the speakers
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grounding issues. Ground amp directly to body. Run power line seperate from RCAs. Ground radio seperately. Roughly in that order.
Seth Stewart '04
2000 Suburban DD
1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
1998 GMC pickup - sold
2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
1975 Scout - TBD
1976 Scout - parts truck
1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
196? Scout 800 - 302 roller
he also ran a ground all the way to the battery which could be a issue.
Ryan Clarke
(214)695-7901
it was doing it even with the sub amp fuse pulled.
I messed with the grounds and not much changed. Rovers use a a single common and 4 signal wires for the pre-amp out of the head unit. The common is braided shielding wire and it got a little better when that was grounded. I pulled all of the input RCAs out of the headunit and plugged a 3.5mm to RCA wire and threw the ipod on. It sounded great, no whine.
Tomorrow after work I'll probably kluge some female RCAs on to the Rover harness and buy new shielded RCA cable instead of the home made speaker wire and radio shack terminals its got now.
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Tonight I lopped off the end of the speaker harness and added RCA jacks, ran some shielded 6' radio shack wire behind the dash to the amp.
The result sounds great, all of the alternator whine is gone. I now own the car stereo I wanted when I was 16
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Someone school me on adding a sub or two in my suburban. I have to replace the component speakers that I killed and might as well add a sub or two. I don't want anything that's going to rattle it to pieces, just enough for some good bass with the music. I got a gift card to Custom Sounds and they carry stuff like Rockford Fosgate, JL Audio, Alpine, and Kenwood, but I have no idea how to decide what to buy. I get all sorts of confused when people start talking about ohms and all the other dick measuring specs they say you need in a sub and amp combo.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
If you're running a stock head unit, you'll need a digital line out converter. It converts speaker wire to RCA, and it's the easiest way to "patch" an amp into a system. If you have an aftermarket head unit, it's as simple as plugging in two RCA cables to the back of it. The other end goes to your amp.
When looking at an amp, look at its root mean square (RMS) power as this is the most accurate way of rating an amp's continuous power. There are other factors like signal to noise, and sensitivity, but you're not going huge, so don't worry about that.
Resistance (Ohms) is important... if you **** that up, you'll blow up your speakers or your amp or both. When looking at subs, there are two different types on the market. Single Voice Coil, and Dual Voice coil. Each voice coil has a resistance rating (in ohms). Wiring these coils together either in series or parallel will effective double/half your resistance rating. Think of each coil as a single sub itself for purposes of wiring them together.
If you need some help just bring it over...
2010 VW Jetta - DD, 5 Banger, 5 Speed, 1000 Watts of sound!!
1979 Ford Bronco Custom - 400/T18/205.. 35" SSRs, 4" lift, Rancho 5000s, 200 watts of sound!!
ive got a 300w amp if yall want it. 6pack of dos equis and its yours.
Violence, naked force, has settled more issues in history than has any other factor, and the contrary opinion is wishful thinking at its worst. Nations and peoples who forget this basic truth have always paid for it with their lives and freedoms." — Robert Heinlein