shocks damp. sponges dampen.Originally Posted by 85cj7
shocks damp. sponges dampen.
Seth Stewart '04
2000 Suburban DD
1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
1998 GMC pickup - sold
2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
1975 Scout - TBD
1976 Scout - parts truck
1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
196? Scout 800 - 302 roller
So this was the proper line of questioning? Nice.
Changed out all the bolts on the rocker guards to 5/16" recessed flat hex heads so that all the exterior body armor bolts are the same.
Also smoothed out the seam between the rocker guards and rear panels.
And installed some JB fab twin sticks and built a box for the shifter boot to bolt to.
Last edited by 85cj7; 09-08-2011 at 06:13 PM.
Looks good. Needs a winch.
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
Thanks.
I have a Superwinch LP8500 waiting to go on. I just haven't gotten around to even looking at how to mount it. I can't use a pre-made winch plate because of the bumper/stinger. I need to weld in a big 1/4" plate and then figure out the fairlead.
Get it done. And wheel it.
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
ask tum tum he figured out how to mount it.
drill holes in plate to mount winch
Weld in 1/4 plate
weld on tabs to hold fairlead
hook winch to battery
wheel
get stuck
use winch
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
I'm doing something a little different. I'll post pics as soon as I hammer out the details.
In for microsoft paint diagram
SHUT UP AND WHEEL
Winch is mounted.
I went for a vertical mounted winch in a horizontal plane. This eliminates all the shear stress on the winch mounting bolts. This has been done before but is still not all that common. I wanted something firstly unique, and secondly easy. This fit both requirements b/c of the complexity of mounting a conventional winch plate to the front frame rails b/c of the addition of the stinger/front crossmember/steering box bolts.
I also re-mounted the solenoid box on top of the rotated winch. I could have just relocated the box but that would require making new cables and finding a place, this was the cleanest route. I mimicked the front tie rod that the solenoid box clamps to by using some 5/8" round bar and some shaft collars with allen key set screws to remove the bar and solenoid pack for easy removal of the winch.
And I figured out how to rotate the clutch housing assembly on the LP series superwinch. They are different then other winch makes and models. I had to call Superwinch directly and talk to a tech guy while disassembling it. It is rotated 72 degrees forward to make the handle easy to get to.
It is all 1/4".
I changed out the front CJ bastard packs for R.E. SOA 1.5" springs. They help to level out the jeep a bit more and gained me another 1/2" of clearance between the tie rod and leaf pack. It also has ruffstuffspecialities spring plates and u-bolts front and rear now.
is your winch mount gusseted at all? i think you will have issues with that plate bending while pulling
"Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
"It's not cheating if you pay for it"
Looks good, now put those shackles on the proper side of the axle and get the most out of them!
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
I agree
I disagree. The forces are attempting to pull the winch past the stinger. The forces are following through the 30 degree placed front gussets that tie into the stinger. So essentially all the force is being applied onto the stinger and bumper itself; channeling outwards from the winch mounting feet.
Here are two test proven examples.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost....08&postcount=9
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost....1&postcount=11
Last edited by 85cj7; 09-15-2011 at 07:10 PM.
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