What size is the axle retainer bolt on the 9 inch... Need to go get some deep sockets tomorrow...
What size is the axle retainer bolt on the 9 inch... Need to go get some deep sockets tomorrow...
2010 VW Jetta - DD, 5 Banger, 5 Speed, 1000 Watts of sound!!
1979 Ford Bronco Custom - 400/T18/205.. 35" SSRs, 4" lift, Rancho 5000s, 200 watts of sound!!
9/16 I think. And you should be able to do it with an extention. Deep not required.
Jonathan Tate
361.676.6466
2010 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 MegaCab
2004 Jeep TJ
1992 Jeep YJ
2008 Jeep JKU
2013 Ford Explorer Sport (mama's go fast car)
Carli's radius arms:
I would call this more of a 3-link and had a hand in building a similar set-up for a Zuk in high school . We called it a 3-link because it was (1) radius arm, (2) single link bar, (3) trac-bar.
And the question:
Do y'all think the shock makes much of a difference as opposed to not being there?
Just ordered a new 3" leaf pack and Fox 2.0 Remote Resi's for the Taco. Resi mounts are weld on, anyone know who could help me with that? Anyone want to help with the install? Everything should be here by next week, id like to have it done before we go to the Chupacabra 300.
2007 JK stock track bar/steering stabilizer mount ripped off the axle and cracked while wheeling (open front end/33" tires/no lift). I fabbed this up; it is 3/16" where the stock bracket was 1/8" it also incorporates more weld surface area and moves the steering stabilizer mount up to the top of the tie rod as opposed to the bottom. I think it turned out alright.
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How hard, or how dumb would it be to attempt to drill out and re-tap a 9/16" fine thread to 5/8" fine thread? It would need to be tight tolerances because it would be used for studs to hold high steer arms to a knuckle for high steer and hydro assist.
For a 9/16"-18, you would drill a 33/64" hole, for a 5/8"-18, it is 37/64". The 37/64" hole should clear out all the cut 9/16" (36/64") threads I believe. Getting it to actually cut threads and not be breaking taps is going to be a labor of patience.
Thanks Ed.
So I guess the answer is yes, it is possible. Is it smart or economical? The answer to that is no.
Buying new studs that would work with the existing knuckles are about $50. The proper drill bit and tap to modify the knuckles would run $70. Not to mention the labor and risk of F-ing something up. I guess my mind is made up.
If you are a bad dude with a mill you can do it, but it is probably more economical to just buy the right studs.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
Is this worth a ****? It looks appealing because I wouldn't have to mount anything in the cab.
http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-HHROADTR...6667668&sr=8-9
http://www.amazon.com/Uniden-Bearcat...6670687&sr=1-5
This is what I have. Good range and clarity. You'll look like a complete chach if you have a handheld imo
http://www.walcottcb.com/cobra-29-lx...io-p-2074.html
I have this one($100 or so on eBay). And yes, the handheld is going to be more annoying than a hard mounted one.
'73 J2000 Thriftside Gladiator, 258/T14/D20
'81 CJ7 Laredo, 258/T176/D300