looks like a space ship
how bad is the oil leak that you cancelled a trip?
looks like a space ship
how bad is the oil leak that you cancelled a trip?
...
about a quart every 100 miles, and getting progressively worst. Rear truss is panted gray and is now looks completely black. Whole undercarriage is covered in oil.
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
you don't need to spend the money on head work etc on the stroker. you also only need to upgrade valve train and or springs if you were building something crazy. if your set on stroking no need to buy a kit. just get a 4.2 crank and rods from a free to cheap 4.2 a set of oversized pistons of whatever bore you want from a stock rebuild kit. a stock 7120 4.0 head and go. if you upgrade the cam to a hesco rv06b you will need some minor head work to seat the new valve springs as the head needs to be machined slighly.
stock stamped rockers are fine way past 300 hp. i just built a 4.7 that is going into my jeep as soon as i measure for push rods.
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
city motor supply
se habla espanol
$905 for the premium 87 to 90 4.0
Last edited by robertf03; 04-09-2015 at 09:48 AM.
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Is the PCV valve clogged? Or can you just take it out, put a hose in there, direct to a bottle to catch the oil. Then keep rocking!
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
Had a oil catch can. That controlled the most of the blow by. The problem now is blowing out gaskets as soon as I replace them. I have no Pcv valve with the renix set up. It is a CCV (crank case ventilation system) set up. No valves just vent hoses basically... all hoses are clean and new. No clogs anywhere. The low compression is the cause of the build up of excess crank case pressure (more than the CCV system can cope with) that is causing seals to fail.
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
a few points for you to consider
-An LS motoer, even the iron block motors weigh less than a 4.0
-They are shorter and only slightly wider than the 4.0 with the huge intake hanging off one side
-LS motors and 5.3's in general run very cool, 4.7L stroker motors are hard to keep cool
-You will have a hard time building a 4.7L to match the HP of a vortec 5.3, they may rate them lower but they usually dyno closer to 350HP
LS swaps are getting easier and easier, if you don't want to tons of power swap in a 4.8L
Originally Posted by afroman006Originally Posted by afroman006
"Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
"It's not cheating if you pay for it"
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
hes been driving around on a dead cylinder, you could tell him a reman 4.0 was 500 hp and hed probably believe it
5.3 seems like such a horrible idea. its already barely a jeep, youd be throwing out all of the drivetrain and probably some sheetmetal.
...
This is a perfect example for the people that think a v8 swap will be a piece of cake.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1007477
Not say its not awesome and that once its done it will be worth all the work. Its just simply more time, money, and work than I want to get into. Too many little hiccups here and there that I don't want to deal with. For me my goal is more power and easiest install. Time is worth more than money (to a reasonable extent) to me at this point. Owning a business and having a full time job plus getting married in less than a year, translates to me not having that much free time, and my goal is to get his thing back on the beach asap. Because when I do have free time, thats where I like to spend it. I appreciate everyone giving their opinions, that's what forums are about, helping others and giving them advice. But for me a 4.0 stroker is the best choice right now.
Last edited by zebvance; 04-09-2015 at 02:31 PM.
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
Sounds like you need a bare bones long block replacement for the stock motor.
You're over thinking this motor swap, but I can see this ending up like your d30, expensive, overbuilt, and still not as good as a pretty much stock one step up to the next level.
D30 < D44
6 cylinder < Chevy v8
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
In all truthfulness, a stock 4.0 Long block would probably be cheap, easy, and do just fine. If you want to go mudDing, get a stroker. Want to crawl, get gears.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
I've been thinking about this same subject for my Cherokee. I want to put a V8 in it, that's my dream, but I will probably just go with a 4.0 stroked.
check this out for idea on the V8 though: http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge...ine_mounts.pdf
C.J. McDougal
FTA Class 2015
2014-2015 TAMOR Treasurer
R.I.P. "Desire" 2000 Cherokee Classic (Will be brought back to life in a few years...)
2004 F-150 Ex cab. 2WD