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Thread: Hi Steer arm caps?

  1. #16
    Yo soy tu papa! Doug Krebs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by agjohn02
    see if they have conical washers too. then you can do it correctly.
    conical washers? I think you're think of dana 44's. Dana 60's use tapered lug nuts.
    1988 Blazer...RIP

  2. #17
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    Well how bout that, them sum*****es are fine thread.

  3. #18
    D-FENS agjohn02's Avatar
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    ah, yes, i forget kopecki has a 60 now. i just thought he was wanting to put lug nuts off the dodge on a 44. can you blame me for thinking kopecki would do such a thing?

  4. #19
    True Hollywood Stry
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    doug the only thing i was waiting on you for was a price, i dont have time to call them till tomorrow afternoon, its not that i was being lazy.
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  5. #20
    Yo soy tu papa! Doug Krebs's Avatar
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    I found every receipt but the one for the studs. They were between 7-8 if I remember correctly maybe a tad cheaper. I also got the nuts from him just because it saved me a trip to the store and he was shipping anyways.

    I remember the total order was like $81. That included 8 studs, 8 nuts, and 2 kingpin springs that were 5 each. That included shipping.

    Remember these were the ARP studs which are stronger than the stock ones and right at the same price.
    1988 Blazer...RIP

  6. #21
    Chubby Bunny davido's Avatar
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    I know I've heard that it's bad, but what is the downfall of using bolts?

    On the spacer, I used stacks of washers that were the same size (inner hole and outer diameter) of the plastic bushing. Make sure your stack is tall enough though. I think mine was a little loose before. Now that I've added a few more to complete the stacks on each side, it's tightened up some. If you have the cap upside down, they should stack evenly with the bottom. The grease holds them all together so they're pretty easy to put in.

    I think this has been covered already, but to clarify... Stock studs will not come close to being long enough.
    The disco ball in my mouth, insinuates I'm ballin'

  7. #22
    Yo soy tu papa! Doug Krebs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davido
    I know I've heard that it's bad, but what is the downfall of using bolts?

    On the spacer, I used stacks of washers that were the same size (inner hole and outer diameter) of the plastic bushing. Make sure your stack is tall enough though. I think mine was a little loose before. Now that I've added a few more to complete the stacks on each side, it's tightened up some. If you have the cap upside down, they should stack evenly with the bottom. The grease holds them all together so they're pretty easy to put in.

    I think this has been covered already, but to clarify... Stock studs will not come close to being long enough.
    You have a lift block below your arm, thats why studs don't work.
    1988 Blazer...RIP

  8. #23
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    Bullchit I'm using the stock studs with my off road design arm.

    Quote Originally Posted by davido
    I know I've heard that it's bad, but what is the downfall of using bolts?

    On the spacer, I used stacks of washers that were the same size (inner hole and outer diameter) of the plastic bushing. Make sure your stack is tall enough though. I think mine was a little loose before. Now that I've added a few more to complete the stacks on each side, it's tightened up some. If you have the cap upside down, they should stack evenly with the bottom. The grease holds them all together so they're pretty easy to put in.

    I think this has been covered already, but to clarify... Stock studs will not come close to being long enough.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  9. #24
    Chubby Bunny davido's Avatar
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    Hmm. Yeah, that would do it. I totally forgot about that. Thanks Cody.

    It's hard to remember what it was like stock. I still can't picture how it could work with just the 1" arms and stock studs. Did they build in enough length for them? There's nothing between the cap and the knuckle on a stock application right? Oh well. I quit.

    The washers do work though Kevin. I think I bought them at TSC for next to nothing.
    The disco ball in my mouth, insinuates I'm ballin'

  10. #25
    Yo soy tu papa! Doug Krebs's Avatar
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    A stock axle on the non steering arm side has the thin sheetmetal cap and grade 8 bolts. This includes dodge and chevy axles on the passenger side. For fords it's like this on both sides as the drag link connects directly to the tie rod.

    On chevy and dodge there is a steering arm on the driver side that is fairly close to 1"
    1988 Blazer...RIP

  11. #26
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    thanks dave i think ill do the washers first for tcc heaven forbid i makes it there, since this would be easier than cutting and welding the cap into the arm in the right spot. then do the other later.
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  12. #27
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    dedenbear studs ordered, was 29.99 shipped. i didnt get the nuts, the guy was like it will be like 5 bucks cheaper if you jsut go buy them yourself so i opted for that route since i need to go to tsc anyway.
    He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!

  13. #28
    Yo soy tu papa! Doug Krebs's Avatar
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    weird, he barely charged me anything for them
    1988 Blazer...RIP

  14. #29
    Chubby Bunny davido's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
    A stock axle on the non steering arm side has the thin sheetmetal cap and grade 8 bolts. This includes dodge and chevy axles on the passenger side. For fords it's like this on both sides as the drag link connects directly to the tie rod.

    On chevy and dodge there is a steering arm on the driver side that is fairly close to 1"

    Right again. I love you Doug. You're the smartest man ever. I bet you have a huge weinder also.

    The disco ball in my mouth, insinuates I'm ballin'

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