I'll have to bolt it up and go from there. but this is what I have pictured.
I'll have to bolt it up and go from there. but this is what I have pictured.
Originally Posted by Sharpe
why not just use the one that came with it and add the front hoop for the trans mount?
Mine is all 3 crossmembers in one with link mounts tied in as well, seems to work great so far minus the fact that it is a royal pain to install or remove and weighs a **** ton.
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
I can't make a flat belly without cutting the **** out of my floor. I'm making I'd just rather start from scratch, making that one work would probably be just as much work.
Yeah but the idea is the same, all in one is what i was getting at.
Yeah the ORD kit has aluminum holes, I'll use them but they're not gonna be the source of most of the support.
I'll be using the factory foot mount, not sure if i'm gonna use the bearing plate cover also.
Modifying the factory crossmember would be more work than making myown.
Cause I want a shiny new one made for bronca, Making that one fit would be just as much work.
Yeah it'll be heavy, but easier to balance on a transmission jack.
It all depends on how it looks when i mate the doubler tonight. Being that i have the short c6 housing (7 inches shorter than the stock one) I might not even have to change the tranny crossmember.
You cut a foot out of the entire body and you're worried about a small floor change??
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
Using the factory foot mount is a wonderful idea,
I would cut the floor, I didnt have to cut too much out of my floor to do a flatbelly with a 205/231 doubler in the TJ. Although I do have a 1inch body lift.
Guess I should buy a transmission jack the is tall enough.
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
I'd guess not. It came out of the klogger which should have the same width frame as your bronco so it should be as easy to bolt up the doubler to your transmission, bolt on the crossmember and then weld some tabs to the frame where they should go. Then take it all out and weld the tabs in solid and box them a bit.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
That giant hole was already there.....
Coming from experience here I would highly recommend a secondary mount to absorb the torque. Not everyone is as nice as the schubring's and willing to spend a few hours in the dark towing you off the trail cause your trans/tcase crossmember snapped and you lost all power including lights, if you do not install one you are asking for problems, especially since you have a decent V8 and you aren't afraid to use the skinny pedal
Drill tap the huge boss furd 205s have and make a foot mount to the frame. I broke three TH400 housings in Pigpen before I added the foot mount. After that, no more problems.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
Are you going to have to get a new drive shaft?
1988 Comanche auto, 4.0, 4x4, 8.8 rear trussed, Dana 30 trussed, SYE np231, Serious Offroad long arms, 9.5" of lift, 35's, lockers
It's too clocked to use the factory mount. Didn't realize it before I put it in.
Problems.
-Need to Re-route fuel and brake lines so I can weld to the frame.
-Mounting holes in AL are starting to get wallowed out. Maybe I'll do a helicoil, or just use studs and nuts instead
Karl, where did you get the bearing plate mounting bracket? All I can find is fancy ones that come with bushings.
He made it plate, transfer punches and a drill press are alll you need
Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
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