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Thread: best bang for your buck for efi systems?

  1. #16
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Forget money, gt40 heads are a waste of time. Are you really going to slap some junk yard heads on there with no work because they were cheap? You know al heads come with valves ready to bolt on right?
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  2. #17
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Nvm, saw the dash. Disregard previous questions.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  3. #18
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    You don't want to spend money on aluminum heads, which have tons of benefits over cast iron, but you're going to spend 1k on aftermarket efi so it might start a little easier, and might drive a little nicer, even though you're using stock ford heads which I think someone somewhere already made like millions of computers with the right tune on them? Am I understanding that right?
    Last edited by Sparling; 08-16-2016 at 09:47 PM.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  4. #19
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    i have a polished intake and matching valve covers that look really good and i want to keep the nostalgic look of the engine bay as much as possible. if i were to use a factory efi system that wouldn't work. hence the all inclusive aftermarket efi with the computer built into the tb that looks like a computer and the normal person would overlook.

    i also didn't say no work would be done. gonna have a valve job done and the deck checked and do some port matching myself if i feel like it. as far as investment i don't see it worth it to spend 1500-2500 for a pair of heads. the cheap aluminum will have cheap valves and need a valve job out of the box anyway and i don't see the benefit to spending a ton on a good set of heads for my plans for the car. and saying gt40 heads are junk is like saying vortec heads are junk. yes aftermarket aluminum would be better but i'm in the middle of building several cars so would rather spend the money other places.

    that being said if you find a set of aluminum heads for a few hundred bucks ill buy them
    Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come

  5. #20
    lowballing someone
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    the motor im using is a 0 mile 69 351 shortblock i have, came with a set of jacked up cheap aluminum heads that were used and need welding and much more... got quoted 1k to fix them. not worth it. if the were not a chinese knockoff cheap head maybe but they are junk. all i currently have is a shortblock. hence needing the front dress etc from an explorer. if i get anywhere close to 350 i will be happy. in a few years if i still have the car i will probably want to put a coyote motor in it anyway so another reason not to put too much money into the 351 that would end up on a pallet in the back of the warehouse.
    Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come

  6. #21
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    #lsswaptheworld
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  7. #22
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    i agree for power and bang for the buck ls is the answer. i do like the idea of a mustang motor in a mustang. that would be round 2 of the build either way. for now just get it together and running.
    Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come

  8. #23
    Come and Take it BroncoJo's Avatar
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    I noticed I put "Barley"

    Good luck getting anywhere close to 350hp with the gt40 heads, to do this you better plan on a giant cam, lots of compression and spinning up right to the point where everything wants to fly apart (and it probably will). Also you will lose all of and more of the drive-ability that fuel injection offers.

    If money is an issue and you want to keep the "nostalgic look" go with a carb and use the other $400 to build a decent looking dash.
    Born to Kill

    Quote Originally Posted by RCcola55 View Post
    I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!

  9. #24
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    I'm with travis, efi needs to go, and just put a carb on it. Spend the money on heads instead. I have a set of twisted wedge heads NIB with 170cc intake runners, assembled with screw in rocker studs and a set of roller rockers I'll sell you for the 1k that your efi would cost.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  10. #25
    Hazaa Fredo's Avatar
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    I would replace all of it with an LS and T56.

    Fuel injection AND power.
    "You know, this car is so fast, that giving Corvette owners this car, is kinda like giving an AK-47 to a pysch ward."

    -Ron Fellows (Corvette C6R Team Driver)

  11. #26
    Hazaa Fredo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparling View Post
    #lsswaptheworld
    Just noticed this.
    "You know, this car is so fast, that giving Corvette owners this car, is kinda like giving an AK-47 to a pysch ward."

    -Ron Fellows (Corvette C6R Team Driver)

  12. #27
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fredo View Post
    Just noticed this.
    I normally wouldn't vote that route on a classic Mustang but this one has that dash, that steering wheel and that front suspension. At this point **** it. They make swap mounts and exhaust and everything.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

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