Hmm, I'll have to look into that. Thanks for the idea.
Hmm, I'll have to look into that. Thanks for the idea.
does this mean its already done and you are sitting on another picture?Originally Posted by agjohn02
...
Built a rear anti-wrap/traction/ladder bar. I used a Roughstuff kit at the axle end and two Johnny Joints at the frame end. I still havent decided what kind of bracing I want to put in the middle though. I don't remember what the anti-squat numbers were, but they suck. Just a fact you have to live with when doing one of these. The tube is 1.75"x.120" wall.
Last edited by agjohn02; 03-14-2008 at 11:49 AM.
Since I built the ladder bar to use long shackles, I needed more clearance than the stock floor allowed. I also needed more room for the front and rear driveshafts and exhaust, so I cut a little more out of the floor.
Then I mocked it up, framed it up, and built it. It's .063" sheet and some 1" flat bar and angle iron.
I had been dissappointed that I didn't find a Ford driver's side drop front axle until I got this done. It would have seriously hampered driver's foot room to do a mirror image of this thing, but it's not too bad as a passenger without a pedal to reach.
Last edited by agjohn02; 03-14-2008 at 11:50 AM.
holy crap! did you weld that all the way down or is there a brake in there? Still not sure what my plans are yet, might have to use some of this design...
Scott, FTAC '99
'62 Nissan Patrol 4-seat Twisted Customs Buggy
'89 "CJ-7" - Her trail rig
'05 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD - her daily driver...
'08 Dodge 2500 Mega Cab 6.7 Diesel 4x4
scott.schubring@williams.com
The office sucks - I wanna go wheeling!
It's 11 separate peices with 7 small "breaks" I did with a torch and the edge of my table. It was much easier to cut the sides into smaller peices and fit them to the floor rather than try to fit it all the way down at once. All of the breaks are yellow in this pic. Everything else is welded.
You didn't want to make the trans tunnel removable for ease of transmission-engine bolting?
The Jeep is looking awesome!
BDR
The only bolts you need to get to are the top adapter bolts and they are easily accessible through the cover.
Ah, you mean the bellhousing bolts. There is enough room between the firewall and engine to get to them.
can you get to your front driveshaft bolts without dropping the skid?
Scott, FTAC '99
'62 Nissan Patrol 4-seat Twisted Customs Buggy
'89 "CJ-7" - Her trail rig
'05 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD - her daily driver...
'08 Dodge 2500 Mega Cab 6.7 Diesel 4x4
scott.schubring@williams.com
The office sucks - I wanna go wheeling!
It'll need more trimming. I left extra on it since I don't have a driveshaft to test fit. I plan to try to get it trimmed back far enough to be able to reach them.
Not running a body lift is not the easiest way to do this project, but it makes it more fun. The YJ frame is higher in the front than a CJ frame and a YJ grill is shorter heightwise than a CJ grill. This makes the CJ grill sit higher than the front than a YJ grill and the hood rises as it goes forward and does not follow the body lines. In order to get the hood to sit level, the CJ grill has to be set lower. There are two ways to do this. One is to notch the corners out of the CJ grill and set it down between the framerails, but I think that would look pretty crappy. So, I sectioned 1.75" out of the grill.
Last edited by agjohn02; 03-14-2008 at 11:51 AM.
looks pretty good
Originally Posted by afroman006Originally Posted by afroman006