After getting sick of the "4Runner Sag," I decided to get some of Downey's 1 1/2" Coils to pep up ther rearend. Now I didn't measure the tire to fender height before and after, but I can tell you that after the install I instantly noticed a HUGE difference. The first thing that I noticed was that I had to adjust my mirrors and seat. I use to look out the top of the rear window (through the rearview mirror), but after installing the coils, The cars were at the bottom. Also, I had to lean my seat back a couple of notches so that I wasn't staring at the ground.

1. Well the first thing I did was jack the truck up. You need to have the rear axle drop enough so that you can get the coil springs off. Since I didn't know how to get it high enough, I would jack it up from the axle, put jackstands on top of 4x4 timbers to raise them, then placed them under the bracket where lower control arms attach to the frame. Once the frame is supported up high, slowly let the jack down until the axle is low enough to pull the springs out.
2. To get the axle to drop low enough, you'll probably need to unbolt the shocks from where they attach to the axle.
3. I had to remove the upper control arms and panhard rod from the axle, so that it could drop enough. The axle may tilt back with the upper arms off. Looking at the axle from the rear: The panhard rod bar is what I'm calling the bar that runs diagonally from the driver's side of the axle up to the bracket on the passenger's side of the frame. It'll limit your axle drop.
4. Once you have enough room, slip the new coils on for size and start putting it back together.
5. Jack up the axle until the conrol arms line up with the brackets. Secure the control arms back to the axle.
6. Now in order to get the panhard rod holes to line up, I had to get a little creative. After some unsuccessful bangs with the great persuader (5lbs sledge), I opted for the Come-Along. A Come-Along is a pretty much a hand cranking winch. I hooked one end to the axle and wrapped the other end around the bracket and hooked it to the back (which is the on the front side of the vehicle). Once it was secure, I gave it a couple of cranks, and wah la, the holes lined right up. Check out the above photo. Well worth a 1000 words, And a heck of a lot easier to understand. Another option from the Come-a-Long would be to purchase the drop mount that's used on Pro Comp lifts. I plan to get it in the future when I get the longer Rancho shocks. The bracket will help keep the axle better centered in high articulation circumstances.
7. The kit also includes a brake line and a couple of brackets. When reconnecting the load sensor back to the panhard rod, use the 6 holed bracket to raise the arm to it's correct height. The load sensor is a bar that runs out of the brake-works on the frame and connects to the panhard rod (down close to where the panhard rod connects to the axle). In theory, when you have a heavy rear load, it lowers the rearend, forcing the arm up. As the arm is raised, more braking power is applied to the rear brakes. Some have even cut the bar and tied it in an upright position to maximize rear wheel stopping power. I haven't seen the need yet. With just the 1 1/2" kit (as opposed to the one with the 1 1/2" spacers) you should use the middle two holes for the correct setting. I went in between others and the directions and just put it on the highest one. No problems.
8. Finally replace the old brake line with the longer, stainless steel braided line, that comes with the kit. To do this right, you will need a line (Flare Head) wrench to remove the soft brass pipe-fitting. I believe it's a 10mm. If you try to remove it with a regular open-end, you have a good chance at rounding it off. Remember that you will need to bleed your brake system after breaking open the line, or else your rear brakes will not work!
9. Let the truck down, flush the brakes and you're done. It took under two hours even with all of the problems I had (wrong tools and all).