Anyone have a picture of a good front anti-wrap bar? I am pretty sure I have the rear figured out.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
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Anyone have a picture of a good front anti-wrap bar? I am pretty sure I have the rear figured out.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
Me no got it the anti wrap bar. No problems.
I knew you'd succumb.
this works wellQuote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
yes, you must keep the klogger. After all who is karl without the klogger? but in all seriousness Im dissapointed that ford never made a TTB60.... The klogger would have really loved that....Just think 42's on a TTB 60....
Last weekend Coop, Robbie and Jerry came over, we drank some beers and go the front mount tacked on. I played with number of springs in the pack and the location of the front mount and cmae up with this. It has about 8" of travel from normal load to full droop.
Sweet jack stand! :D
The keg has no weight on it, the Jack stands have weight on them, I threw the keg in there "just in case"
You never had 8"s of droop when I was around. :confused:
8"? you should be able to get a little more, i think mine was 13-14 and cooks should be about the same. But then again its not all about the length of travel, but how its used right?
That is not full up travel, that is just from how the truck would sit on level surface to full droop, so I wouuld expect 12" or so of total travel. This is also without the axle pulling down the spring too.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
Mr. Crouch, do you have any doubler crossmember pics?
Seems some people (mostly those w/o an ORD adapter) support the 205 on the acccess plate or in the yoke area.
I plan on a crossmember under the adapter bc the adpater has 2 threaded holes which you cant actually see in the alst pic, but you can see the flat part of the adapter that sits on the crossmember. The bolts thread up into the adapter.
The second pic, why the F would you go to that much trouble to make the plates to go over the yoke seal retainer and access plate when there are two 1/2" threaded holes RIGHT THERE?? In general, I dont like the idea of plates like that that mount to something that retains fluid. Same concept as mounting a ram to a diff cover. The stress causes leaks, F that.
Just for JB, here are some pic's. I still have not made my "3rd" cross member for the 205, I need to, but I wheeled it like this in Clayton last December and at Alto in October. The tube is 1.75" 0.120 HREW. In Clayton I drug it on some stuff, and it dented about an 1/8", I am thinking about re-doing it with some 1.75" 0.250" DOM (that I already have), but I might just drink beer instead.
Here is one from the rear (insert Ed joke here), you can see where it scraped in Clayton, there is one from the side to show how low it hangs.
Here is a picture of my front shaft (insert second Ed joke here), I just 45'd the tube and put it together. One more tricky thing, to clear my doubler shifters (Off Road Design 3 stick) and still be close to the trans mount, I had to rotate the entire thing about 10 degrees forward. So where my cross member goes from bushing to verticle, it is not at 90 degrees, it is like at 80 degrees towards the front of the truck. The shifters are freaking close!
Second photo shows my shifters, when you get in you just have to ignore the wholes for the frame in the back and the gaping holes for the cage.....
Could you flip the angle so it goes up instead of down and run the crossmember higher? Maybe use some square/rectangle tube with .25" plate welded to the bottom for the T-case mount? It's hard to tell what kind of room you have down there.
Here are some pics of the 60 swap, I say 60 swap, but it should be called the single traction beam installation with new winch mount, leaf spring conversion, high steer, hydro assist, etc..... swap.... It's taking a long time as work has been crazy. The steering is not complete, the bolts in the heims are just there for adjustment, safety washers, castle nuts, etc... will be installed, so don't bitch about that.
Oh the axle is a Ford Dana 60 with 5.13's and a lock right. Steering arms are Mad 4X4. Drag link hole is 7.75" out from center of king pin, tie rod is placed for clearance. Heims are 3/4". Outer shafts are chrome-moly, so is long side inner. Spicer u-joints. "Solid" diff cover, this thing is awesome, the cover was like $80 shipped, I challenge anyone who is looking at a weld together cover to look at this. Springs are Chevy's 2.5" wide with a full length add a leaf for wrap.
Oh the rear leaf spring mounts are actually from a 1 ton Ford Stock, you may have seen them on Clarke's Bronco in the past. They are welded and bolted to the frame.
You could, but this is not complete (nothing ever is), the idea was to tie the front, middle, and future rear cross member together and plate them. The plate would have a hole where the current t-case bolts are for access. This way the bolts would be under the plate and not rub when you drag it on a rock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Is that what you were talking about? It is hard sometimes to understand what people are asking on the interweb.
Looks good Karl.
What bushings are you using for your crossmember mounts? Just some standard poly leaf spring bushings? If so, where do you get them.
They are a poly mount, I think they are actually summit brand, I forget where I got them. I was not particular to anything, I bought them because they were on super sale. They have grease fittings, which are not needed, but since they had them I went ahead and put them in.
Is that a dumpster it is sitting next to? Wife make you clean up?
No I did not like the color of the sheetrock in my house, so I had to do some remodeling.....
Dam sexy! Maybe too sexy to drink Keystone out of now... may, probably not. :D
For those unaware, at Alto my truck ate a distributor gear, again at Clayton it ate another one, it was hungry... The background on the engine is this, it is from a 1994 Ford Bronco, 351. I removed the 1994 Fuel Injection and put 1989 Fuel Injection on it so it would plug into my existing truck harness. At this time I assumed the engine and injection system were the same and all I was doing was making the change so it would be plug and play. Apparently I was incorrect...
Internet research shows sometime around 1993 to 1995 Ford made the 351 in the Bronco a roller motor. This is further backed if you go to O'reilly's in 1993 it is a flat cam and in 1994 it only offers a roller cam. Lucky me, I have a roller motor, crappy way to find out...
So here is a question, to verify this I guess I can pull a valve cover and look to see if I see the hydraulic roller connector? If so there are 2 options.
Option 1 - Tear down the front side of the motor, inspect the cam gear, if it is bad replace the cam (~$300), put steel gear on distributor, kick ass again
Option 2 - Pull distributor, put steel gear on, kick ass and hope that the cam is not damaged.
Which option would you guys go with? At Clayton Fred and I looked down at the cam gear and it did not look bad, but we could only see like 40% of it and we were a foot away shining a flash light down a hole? If I did option 2 I could cary a spare metal gear, the only thing would be if the cam gear shat out you would be SOL....
Thoughts?
This is the dog bone the roller lifters use and spider that holds them I was talking about. I think if you pull the valve cover (driver would probably be easiest) you should be able to look down the hole the pushrod comes through and see this. If so, I'd go option 2.
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/7...dsmallbloc.jpg
Do you have the original distributor that came with the motor? Knoeller mentioned there may also be different diameter distributor gears. I didn't get a good look at the one you pulled Friday, but I thought it looked like it only stripped near the outer edge of the tooth? Like maybe the gear you were using was too small?
I no longer have the distributor that went with that motor. I'm thinking a good cam inspection thru the hole and option 2.
I say option 2 if you don't trust the current "flame heat treated" gear that is in there now.
You mean that one with the little chip in it....Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
I thought we weren't going to talk about how inaccurately you swing a hammer. :D
You KNOW I would go Option 2. :D Thoroughness has no role in Klogger maintenance.
Ok, so we learned this trip that we should not only ease up on the drinking on the trail, but also when doing delicate internal engine work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
I told you so Mr. Look at Me with my big hammer.
Option 2, or preform an exorcist on the motor!
Flem/Ryno, how many happy times can we fit under the hood?
Never got a chance to post this, 3rd doubler croee member with integrated anti-wrap bar mount.
Saw that when it was on the trailer. Looks goodQuote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
The newest option for the 1982 -1994 Ford F-series, the deer stand mover. Frick came over Tuesday and we welded the frame together, it is 2 - 9' lengths of pipe with 3 cross bars (one at the top, one at the bottom, and one at the pivot point), then I put a large pipe over the center one to make the hinge. I attached 2 4000 lbs come-alongs to the top. You back up to the deer stand, dig the legs out, attach come-alongs, pull it up and tip it back. Then strap it to the cab.
I figured it would either work awesome, or implode on itself. It worked better than I could have expected. Jerry, Jason M, Jason (2cats) and I went to the lease and were very pleasantly surprised.
nice!
Wonder why it wouldn't start this weekend???
Attachment 19207
Fender damage, what fender damage?
Attachment 19206
And this should fix that stalling winch problem...
Attachment 19205