Not to be a dick, but how the F' do you plan on fabricating them precisely enough to design in 2 degrees of camber?
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Not to be a dick, but how the F' do you plan on fabricating them precisely enough to design in 2 degrees of camber?
Guess we know who got it...:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=36925
Who is that? I wonder what it finally sold for.
Looks like $850? Click on the swico link, I guess that's the result.Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
I believe that is EckertQuote:
Originally Posted by JB
True.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
Dont build the added caster into the arms that is dumb and makes your arm building alot harder. The best way to do that would be to install the radius arm wedges on the axle without welding them, then bolt up your radius arms(leave them a little loose) to the axle with whichever radius arm caster bushings that you want to use and rotate the axle to get the caster where you want it. After that tack weld the wedges and remove the axle for final welding.
he is keeping the 44, so adding a few degrees in the arm itself would be a good thing, so he doesnt have to play around too much with caster bushings. When he does the swap he should do exactly how you described. The challenge he or whom ever builds the arms, is setting up a jig that will allow the preset caster to be built into the arms.
Fixed my tail lights, all it took was new bulbs and lenses. The old lenses were broken so the bulbs melted into them and broke them.........I have lost motivation to work on it, and money.
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...-axle-set.html
maybe i'll do this, I'm tired of ****ing around with cheap ass ****
Just leave it alone for a while and come back to it this summer. That way you can also save money while not getting pissed off at it all the time. Find a second hobby too. That's why I started buying guns, it gives me something else to do while I'm tired of my trucks problems.
Yeah I haven't really messed with it for a while. Today was really the first time i have worked on it since clayton. I think I'll just clean up the wiring, put the glovebox back in, put the right driveshaft bolts in and fix the rear diff leak. Just small stuff that is bugging me. Maybe i'll redo the bedliner on the inside and take the crappy interior panels out. Theres alot of small things that piss me off that i'll fix, won't cost me $50.
Does it make sense to put in a set of alloy axles with a standard u-joint? Seems like it would be smarter to put in some ctms or superjoints cause if the ujoint blows it would likely take out the ears on the shafts, no?Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Usually the joint cap gets to spinning in the yoke which knocks the clip off and the cap works its way out until it hits a ball joint and the shafts break. Some people grind the stock shafts so they can put full circle clips to keep the caps in. I wonder if tacking the stock clips in would do the same thing, or if the tacks would break. You'd still stretch the ears pretty easy. I used to fix the whole problem by welding the caps in but then it was a pain in the ass to change the joints. Only once actually broke a joint after doing that though, usually just crushed the needle bearings. Alloy shafts should not stretch and will already be machined for full circle clips. Combine with real spicer joints and I bet you get a pretty reliable setup. Take the bronco off the top of the axles and replace it with a YJ and you'll have a pretty good rig.
You sure change your mind often.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
I'm going to send some gay porn mags to that shipping address
It's Travis'
you have an aol email address? 1997 called and they want their 1000 free hours back.
zing! (though I do have a hotmail)Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
I've had AOL since 2003. Why change?
New shafts in, yukon chrome Moly shafts with spicer 760x Joints and full circle snap rings. I didn't know you had to put the snap rings on the joints before putting them in the shafts till after I did one, so I had to take it all apart and do it again. Then a new drag link.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ldIV/012-3.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ldIV/013-4.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ldIV/021-3.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ieldIV/108.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ieldIV/110.jpg
http://s736.photobucket.com/albums/x...urrent=111.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ldIV/116-1.jpg
Your bronco sucks on the RTI ramp. When you can flex like this let me know.
BOOM... No rebuttal to that TommyQuote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
haha, little more speed and you could make it to the top.
Those radius arms really are my limiting factor at the moment. The driver side drop bracket is starting to crack like the passenger side did before Clayton. I was looking at it when it was on the rti ramp and you could see it bending. The rear flexes well but the front sucks.
That gold draglink is pimptasticle!
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ldIV/004-3.jpg
47 damage. Only 1/10th of it, trails are too narrow.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ldIV/009-4.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ldIV/010-6.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ldIV/024-6.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...ldIV/021-4.jpg
Still working on a fairlead mount
Did you not go to muddy gras?
No fairlead?
no he couldn't figure out how to build it
Or just hasn't had time...Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
If you want to make fun of tommy, his excuse for leaving Alto early was the sub-60 degree temperatures being too cold :flipoff2:
Even with a fairlead I would not run the winch line like that down to your recovery hook. See how the wire is tight against the front edge of the bumper. You brush that against a tree/rock or rub your nose on the ground when coming off a steep incline and you are looking at replacing your brand new winch wire before you ever used it.
Hope you have better luck with the Smittybuilt then JB did. I know there price tags are enticing but that reflects on their quality.
Yeah, I just have the wire like that until I build my fairlead mount. The reason I went with the smittybilt besides it's price was I saw them send zach a brand new one when his broke. I figure I can use it till it breaks and then they'll send me a new one. I never wheel alone so I should be fine.
oh, and it was 43 degrees and raining, and there was no one there.
You should have went to muddi gras at General Sams, I heard it was wildQuote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...adMountnew.png
Made out of creightons favorite material....
you do realize that you are spending more time drawing it on a computer than it would take most people to just make it out of steel?
The computer drawing looks good man. Keep up the fire.
The first batch (I.e. mine and JB's) were good winches but the had issues with the sideplate and situation knob. I think smitty has done some major quality control and is now making truly excellent stuff. Shop back home says they have more warns coming in for warranty work than smitty's, which is pretty impressive.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7