Not to be a dick, but how the F' do you plan on fabricating them precisely enough to design in 2 degrees of camber?
Not to be a dick, but how the F' do you plan on fabricating them precisely enough to design in 2 degrees of camber?
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
Guess we know who got it...Originally Posted by JB
http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=36925
BDR
Who is that? I wonder what it finally sold for.
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
Looks like $850? Click on the swico link, I guess that's the result.
I believe that is Eckert
Born to Kill
I just watched a spider dominate a fly on the wall outside, i thought would would travis do? and i did the opposite, spider lives!
True.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
Dont build the added caster into the arms that is dumb and makes your arm building alot harder. The best way to do that would be to install the radius arm wedges on the axle without welding them, then bolt up your radius arms(leave them a little loose) to the axle with whichever radius arm caster bushings that you want to use and rotate the axle to get the caster where you want it. After that tack weld the wedges and remove the axle for final welding.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
he is keeping the 44, so adding a few degrees in the arm itself would be a good thing, so he doesnt have to play around too much with caster bushings. When he does the swap he should do exactly how you described. The challenge he or whom ever builds the arms, is setting up a jig that will allow the preset caster to be built into the arms.
Ryan Clarke
(214)695-7901
Fixed my tail lights, all it took was new bulbs and lenses. The old lenses were broken so the bulbs melted into them and broke them.........I have lost motivation to work on it, and money.
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...-axle-set.html
maybe i'll do this, I'm tired of ****ing around with cheap ass ****
Just leave it alone for a while and come back to it this summer. That way you can also save money while not getting pissed off at it all the time. Find a second hobby too. That's why I started buying guns, it gives me something else to do while I'm tired of my trucks problems.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Yeah I haven't really messed with it for a while. Today was really the first time i have worked on it since clayton. I think I'll just clean up the wiring, put the glovebox back in, put the right driveshaft bolts in and fix the rear diff leak. Just small stuff that is bugging me. Maybe i'll redo the bedliner on the inside and take the crappy interior panels out. Theres alot of small things that piss me off that i'll fix, won't cost me $50.
Does it make sense to put in a set of alloy axles with a standard u-joint? Seems like it would be smarter to put in some ctms or superjoints cause if the ujoint blows it would likely take out the ears on the shafts, no?
BDR
Usually the joint cap gets to spinning in the yoke which knocks the clip off and the cap works its way out until it hits a ball joint and the shafts break. Some people grind the stock shafts so they can put full circle clips to keep the caps in. I wonder if tacking the stock clips in would do the same thing, or if the tacks would break. You'd still stretch the ears pretty easy. I used to fix the whole problem by welding the caps in but then it was a pain in the ass to change the joints. Only once actually broke a joint after doing that though, usually just crushed the needle bearings. Alloy shafts should not stretch and will already be machined for full circle clips. Combine with real spicer joints and I bet you get a pretty reliable setup. Take the bronco off the top of the axles and replace it with a YJ and you'll have a pretty good rig.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
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