Beast from da Middle East

dubz direct on ebay. They were nice people to deal with, and had lots of positive feedback, but it took them a while to get all of the rims to me. The steel inners were dropshipped from the manufacturer almost 3 weeks after the aluminums arrived (an not until I had to call them 3 times trying to get a tracking number, and getting ahold of them was a biatch with the time difference from work to cali). The center caps for the front are in the truck and will be put on as soon as I have time to stop by a tire store (grandad didn't see that they had come in a seperate ups box and they were sitting with a few of the parts boxes for the beast when I got home).

got the winch rope on and the loop clamped down. I will need to string it out and roll it back up under pressure to get it to seat properly. Gonna load it up in the a.m. and head to the exhaust shop then back here to finish loading the rest of the gear and tools until Creighton and Garrett get here to install his GN hitch.

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Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH

I put a tape to the axles yesterday while I had the tires off.

Front
WMS-WMS: 77"
OoT-OoT (Outside of tire to Outside of Tire):90 1/4"

Rear
WMS-WMS: 73 1/4"
OoT-OoT: 86 1/4"

I have been looking at dimensions of buggies lately, and most are running between 91-99"s wide. I am thinking of having the H1's recentered to widen the front a couple of inches to keep the tires out of the leaf springs and frame, and have the rears widened to match. What's the width some of you fullsize guys are running?

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Ok, I believe the stock H1's have a 7.5" BS, and the recentered I have are at 3.5". In essence moving the wheels 4"s farther out.

Dually Hubs WMS-WMS 77"
Single Hubs WMS-WMS 69.5"

If I go ahead and go with single wheel hubs on the front, and put the recentered wheels on, it should be just about the same. It will move the wms back in 3.75"s.

just get rid of the leaf springs and the tires won't rub them anymore

true. Maybe before Colorado next year

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Originally Posted by Hot Pocket

Not to mention the 44's just aren't cuttin it like they used to! :gigem:

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Fail.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007

just get rid of the leaf springs and the tires won't rub them anymore

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH

true. Maybe before Colorado next year

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I don't know what I was thinking when I posted this. I had already gone through the thought process and it brought me to the conclusion that if I am going to link this biatch, that I need to just get a 4 seat tube chassis and do it right. :D

YES!!!!!!!!
X-chassis with your drivetrain would be $$$$$$
You're gonna need more motor though :D

yeah, that doesn't look too bad.

http://hendrixmotorsports.com/db4/00...44chassis2.jpg

The ones they have on the site w/ skins on the side just don't look right though.

I wonder how hard it would be to shoehorn a Duramax in there. hmmm.....

I can't tell you how many hours I've spent reading rustysomethingorother's buildup (the rig in the pic). There are other, cooler chassis too but I think the X is supposed to be pretty well engineered and relatively easy to build.

The prices don't look too bad until you start trying to add in the sub-frame and other assorted hoops and such. Getting something that was somewhat plug and play would be nice though to keep the downtime to a minimum. This won't get done for a while though, unless I can find employment w/ another company in the region w/ a bit more long term job security. With Iraq looking like it is staying somewhat calm (at least that is what the news has you to believe), I may be out of here before 2011 rolls around.

Of course, Dragoon Off-Road may just have to design and build it's own chassis if/when it ever gets up and running. ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH

Of course, Dragoon Off-Road may just have to design and build it's own chassis if/when it ever gets up and running. ;)

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YES! The first step is getting stickers made (that's how Uglyfab got its start :D) Send me some and I will pimp you Colorado-side!

You will be first on our list when we get them printed up! Hell, you can even be our Colorado Division Distributor!

BTW, the chevy would look peemp w/ an Uglyfab sticker, donchathink?!?!!! ;)

Of course! What color? Send address...
Didn't Creighton want some too?

Just send Creighton whatever color would look good on my 'rusted out redneck POS, until you get close enough and see all the good parts it has on it' truck. :D

Creighton send address...I'll send you a selection
Coop you painted over your old ones didn't you? I'll bring you a couple.

PM sent w/ his address.

yeah I have been thinking about some dragoon Offroad stickers I will see if I can draw up some ideas and and email them to you ed

I will gladly throw a Dragoon Offroad Sticker on our new beast, make em up! :D

im down for 3

Done!:laughing:

Awesome to the 10th degree!! Jabnasty aint got **** on you BDR! ;)

i like the implant scar under the left tit! put some vitamin E on that ****!

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Originally Posted by Graystroke

i like the implant scar under the left tit! put some vitamin E on that ****!

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Old men...:rolleyes:



:flipoff2:

That's not a scar, it's a bite mark. That's what I am going to keep telling myself atleast. :D

Done, where do i pay for them

Who's got my brake line flare tool?

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**** To Do List (updated AGAIN!) :

• New Master Cylinder for brakes and plumb in 2nd line lock(or at least get them bled long enough to install hydroboost)
• Install new clutch slave and bleed
• Install new fan belt
• Reseal diff covers
• Replace bolts for front of bed. (.5 hour)
• Groove boggers.
• Clearance rear fenders.
• Mount front tires on recentered rims.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH

just cleaning up the list of **** to do.

Parts Needed:
Diff Seals
Rope thimble for 7/16" wire rope

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this too

http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthre...ighlight=cs144

I think I have it in the garage, I am not sure I will have to check

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Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007

I think I have it in the garage, I am not sure I will have to check

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you should have it, cause i had it and gave it to sharpe to give to you

yeah its there along with the other pile of eds stuff

ok, good. I will worry about the brakes later then (other than gettng them bled, I am pretty sure I will need them on helicopter hill!). :D

Got the clutch linkage worked out I believe. Going to bleed the brakes tomorrow and install the CS144 I picked up at the store today. May try to swap the single wheel hubs on if I can get bearings for it.

(95 Caddy, 4.9L, heated windows)

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Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH

(95 Caddy, 4.9L, heated windows)

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is that in reference to the cs144 or your next project?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH

Got the clutch linkage worked out I believe. Going to bleed the brakes tomorrow and install the CS144 I picked up at the store today. May try to swap the single wheel hubs on if I can get bearings for it.

(95 Caddy, 4.9L, heated windows)

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You mean w/o heated windows right? As you pay more for something you don't use if you get the heated window one. $30 extra on rockauto, and both are 140 amps for ACDelco's numbers.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bcolman

is that in reference to the cs144 or your next project?

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Next project, gotta keep my baby momma happy!

:rolleyes: :flipoff2:

Yes, CS144. I forgot to research it and write down the specifics before I left, so I made a last minute phone call to get the info and that is what I was told. When I go back I will try to remember and check the price difference and part # for both.

Dont forget you need to clock the case 45 degrees.

Ok, thanks. I have been piddling around with the brakes a bit this morning and ended up pulling one of the front H1's (non recentered) apart because of the stop leak that was put in it along time ago and was making it a biatch to air down. I think I am going to head to town after I get the bearing and seal #'s off the 60 bible and go ahead and change the front hubs over this evening.

I may wait until this weekend when I head to aggieland to swap the alternators until I can get my hands on a gear puller if they don't have one at the parts store in lot..

You dont use a gear puller on the alternator pulley...

It has a conical wedge holding the serpentine pulley to the alterntor shaft. The shaft is not tapered but the hole in the pulley is. If you take the nut off and look at the shaft, you can see the ~1/8" thick end of the wedge with the split in it. You have to get a socket or piece of pipe big enough to go around the wedge but fit inside the face of the pulley. You then beat the piss out of the pulley and it will loosen the wedge free. Its best to put the alternator face up on a piece of wood with the back on the housing where the shaft is supported directly on the wood. This will somewhat absorb the impact of the hammer whacks and hopefully keep you from FUBARing anything on the case. Make sure the threaded post on the back of the case is not taking the brunt of the hits, its insulation WILL break. Then just getcha a normal v-belt pulley and bolt that ***** on there, it is just held in place by friction, no wedge involved.

Will the pulley off my old alternator work, or will I have to get the pulley from the parts store also?