get that ram parallel to the tie rod. Like it is there it is going to try and rotate the tie rod
Printable View
get that ram parallel to the tie rod. Like it is there it is going to try and rotate the tie rod
Really? Maybe the pics are deceiving. I went and threw a level on it for you. Not sure how you can get more level than that.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03131.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03130.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03129.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03128.jpg
Are you serious?
And why wouldn't I be? Enlighten me tum-tum.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
How are you planning on mounting the u-bolt mount in double-shear and could you use the other side of the u-bolt to mount the ram?Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
Well you didn't attempt to minimize the normal forces acting on the tie-rod.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
Ok, I understand what you guys are saying now. I was thinking that level is what mattered not parallel. Now I see that both are important because tie rods have 360 degrees of rotation, I'm not sure why I was thinking in only one plane.
I moved the fixed end to the closer u-bolt end and it looks much better. It can not go any more parallel without the cylinder making contact with the tie rod when the steering cycles; I checked.
Think it's acceptable?
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03133.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03132.jpg
It's a start :flipoff2::flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
I'm still interested in the double-shear u-bolt mount
I'll post up tomorrow after I play with come cardboard templates and make a run to the hardware store.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
if you extend the mount on the tierod then you should be able to get the cylinder closer to parallel and in plane like it needs to be
I'll play with it tomorrow but it is really close to the back of the pumpkin as it is.
Steering solution.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03134.jpg
Parts list:
-1.75"x6.75" single ended ram kit
-Modified psc gear box for cylinder assist 25/76 metric gear w/ 13/16 input
-1400X series pump
-6.5" remote reservoir kit
-1300/1400 series pump retrofit bracket for 5.0 Ford Mustang pump bracket
-Modified stock pulley
-12" heat sink cooler kit -6 fittings
-Cylinder hose kit w/ 4-90s 6' of hose
-6 x 18mm x 1.5 0-ring adapter
-(2) A2 #6 field servicable 90 degree
-(3) A2 #6 high pressure hose LG OD
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03145.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03144.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03143.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03141.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03140.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03139.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03138.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03137.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03136.jpg
did you buy the ram seperate?
No, it's psc just forgot to list it. Thanks for pointing that out.
is it the 1.5" 8" travel ram?
I see the edit now. How did you decide 6.75" ?
Before I tore it all apart I found the axle center-line and marked it with a chalk line then I pulled the wheels to full lock right and marked a chalk line on the tie rod that matched the axle center-line mark. Then I pulled the wheel to full lock left and marked another chalk line on the tie rod that matched the axle center-line mark. Then I measured the distance between the two chalk lines on the tie rod. It was exactly 6.75" throw. I was just lucky in the respect that PSC has a 6.75" throw ram. Because you want the ram to be the limiting stops in the system it worked out perfectly, otherwise I would have had to run the 8" stroke ram and have added internal stops.
I wanted to change the look of the cage up a bit so I added a bar running across the top of the each wheel well and a double B pillar with some small 'rungs'. I have always liked the look of the double B pillar and it adds some uniqueness.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03146.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03147.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03149.jpg
New D-44 3/8" cover
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03358.jpg
$5 worth of black clothing dye makes a huge difference on the harnesses.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03357.jpg
Did you buy a weld it yourself kit or did it come welded?
It came as is. Don't know the brand. It was a $40 eBay impulse buy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Does it leak?
It's been on for over a month with no signs of leaking or weeping.
I got some custom cowl armor made up for the cj and bolted it up last weekend. It covered up the dent in the cowl from the last flop nicely. :D I will add some tube and extend it off the fenders and tie it into this new cowl armor plate. It is 3/16" with (10) 5/16" countersunk stainless bolts, just like the rest of the jeep.
Again, trying to stick with the 'unique' look. I'm not a fan of the new two-tone paint scheme. But that should change soon. :gigem:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03368.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03369.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03370.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03372.jpg
Most recent off-roading trip compilation from last weekend.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qy1uy...=youtube_gdata
Lookin good. That cowl armor is sweet.
Rancho 5012s in front and 14" Bilstein 5125 in rear. Ford F-250 shock towers all around. 6" of uptravel and 8" of downtravel on all four corners.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03879.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03695.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03895.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03897.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03891.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03892.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03888.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03886.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03900.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03902.jpg
Shocks are upside down. :p
I'm having steering problems. Pics are above if you want to see the system in question.
Symptoms are:
-Wheels WILL NOT MOVE, no steering when at idle and locked in 4wd. This occurs even when I am moving at speed. If my foot is off the pedal the wheel will not move.
-If I apply throttle the jeep will steer fine.
-Zero leaks.
-No air in the system.
-Not a supply/starvation issue (I unbolted the reservoir and hung it directly above the pump with no change in results).
It seems to me like the pump is not building sufficient pressure at low rpms. Is the pump torched? It is about 6 months old and has 3 runs on it. Thoughts?
Parts list:
-1.75"x6.75" single ended ram kit
-Modified psc gear box for cylinder assist 25/76 metric gear w/ 13/16 input
-1400X series pump
-6.5" remote reservoir kit
-1300/1400 series pump retrofit bracket for 5.0 Ford Mustang pump bracket
-Modified stock pulley
-12" heat sink cooler kit -6 fittings
-Cylinder hose kit w/ 4-90s 6' of hose
-6 x 18mm x 1.5 0-ring adapter
-(2) A2 #6 field servicable 90 degree
-(3) A2 #6 high pressure hose LG OD
My PSC pump Had very few hours on it before it went out. They can rebuid it for $65. So pretty cheap.
It seems ridiculous to me that a $200 pump burns out after prob 20 hrs of drive time.
I guess I will call Lance at PSC and see what he says. I don't know how it could be anything else.
I would unbolt the ram and see if it still does it. May be something internal that is binding.
Is there steering without the front locked at idle? If so does it get easier when increasing the RPM?
it seems to be hit and miss with psc pumps these days.....
and your shocks are upside down.....
what year f250 are those shock towers from?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Aren't those just the incredibly common and popular 80-97 4x4 f250/350 towers
Do you have a p/s cooler? If not, get one. If you have room, 90s furd exploders have a kickasss stacked plate cooler that is ~8x10" and has 3/8" hose barbs. I have a couple laying around and Ryno put them on a couple trucks at Lance's as well. If you are tight on space, 90's Chevy pickups like my crewcab had a two row fin style p/s cooler stock that is long and skinny. I never had any problems with my PSC pump even with hydroboost brakes but had a cooler on it the entire time.
What are you running for fluid in the PS pump? High quality fluid seems to make a huge difference with PSC pumps
yes, they are like $15 at the ford dealershipQuote:
Originally Posted by JB
When my PS pump went out it would randomly suck at idle, and if I rev'd it, it would start working...
It seems to be a little better with the front hubs unlocked but there is still a fair bit of resistance that does not seem right. Yes, if I rev the engine and hold it at higher RPMs (1500+) it will steer like it is supposed to.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Correct. They were $27 for the pair and a two day wait at the local Ford dealership.Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
Look at the pics above for the cooler set up. I have the 'heat sink' style cooler that PSC recommended. I was leaning towards the conventional single pass fin style but this is what they sold me on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
I am not sure how hot these systems should get and I guess I could get a reading of the fluid temp by inserting a probe into the reservior. It seems to be running very hot to me. If I am mid way through a run and go to check the fluid level I have to use a rag to open the reserviour b/c the lid is so hot.
It is Prestone as261 fluid.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...___#fragment-2
Problem?
This seems to be the same symptoms. I don't know how it could be anything else but the pump. I have yet to contact Lance at PSC and get his take on it. I will report back after I talk to PSC.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02