If you ever look at how warn suggests you mount an 8274, what Seacrest did is way stronger.
If you ever look at how warn suggests you mount an 8274, what Seacrest did is way stronger.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
Shake down run today at Bridgeport OHV park. I had never been out there before but it was affordable, close, and ended up having plenty to do. I started out by just following around a few newbies but ended up on one of the hardest trail sections in the park for a little while at the end of the afternoon and it was a VERY good indicator of what was working on the jeep and what wasn't.
1-Ratchet strapped fuel tank only stays in place for so long
2-Welded front ends do not turn. I am tired of having to jump out and unlock the hubs to make tight turns
3-Un-locked tool boxes produce large projectiles when trying to bounce up a ledge on an incline. My brand new $100 fire extinguisher tried to decapitate me
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Okay, the first step to get the steering better is to finish up where I want the tie rod and drag link to run so the geometry is unchanged when I add hydro-assist.
The axle was pushed 1" forward and rockstomper high steer arms with 1" spacers were added to move the tie rod to behind the axle. This completely eliminates any chance of the tie rod and drag link making contact, moves the tie rod (and ram) even more out of harms way, and gives me some much needed room to run the hydro-assist ram. It also eliminates the inverted y steering that I was running with the "1 ton" tie rod ends. I feel that true crossover steering was always the better option.
Total wheelbase is now 99.3375". Just shy of 6" of total stretch over the stock wheelbase.
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get that ram parallel to the tie rod. Like it is there it is going to try and rotate the tie rod
Originally Posted by afroman006
Originally Posted by afroman006
Ok, I understand what you guys are saying now. I was thinking that level is what mattered not parallel. Now I see that both are important because tie rods have 360 degrees of rotation, I'm not sure why I was thinking in only one plane.
I moved the fixed end to the closer u-bolt end and it looks much better. It can not go any more parallel without the cylinder making contact with the tie rod when the steering cycles; I checked.
Think it's acceptable?
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if you extend the mount on the tierod then you should be able to get the cylinder closer to parallel and in plane like it needs to be