Coop can tell you which ones not to buy :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
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Coop can tell you which ones not to buy :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
Damaged Bronco trans pan on right is a 'deep' pan b/c of the indent in the middle which allows for the 'snout' on the filter. I ordered a cheapo Summit chrome pan that does not have this and I assume is for a Mustang. So I bought a filter for a 5.0 Stang.
DOes it matter? What would be the purpose for having 'deep' pan. WOuld it have anything to do with starving the pump of ATF at angles?
Do scrap yards take seats out of vehicles? They have alot of metal in them but alot of foam and fabric too. I know the easy solution is to burn the foam off the frames but I am too lazy to even do that.
Does that truck have an icm of some sort? That's the first thing that comes to mind for me when I hear about misfires at low rpms that smooth out at higher ones. Coil is also a good bet...they can go out at the lower RPMs (lower voltages) but still work fine at higher RPMs...I thinkQuote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
humor me. . . icm (ignition control module)? I don't know if it does or not. Gonna try to convince flem to come take a look. I think I may replace the #4 coil to rule that out before tearing into the top end to check piston and headgasket.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
yeah Ignition Control Module. I dunno anything about that coil per cylinder stuff though...
So after talking with several people I decided to stay with 33"s until the Jeep is no longer my daily driver.
That said it is time to buy some new tires.
I have ran Cooper STT's for the past two years and they are near 50k now. They have worn unevenly, but have performed well in every environment I've been to. (although the only "off-road tire I have to compare is the BFG AT's)
That said I am considering switching to the BFG KM2s or the Goodyear MT/Rs.
They are all close enough in price for that to not be an issue.
Thoughts, experiences, and opinions are greatly appreciated.
Plenty of people DD 35s (edit: though not with a 4cyl)
You should buy Kreighton's Krawlers
I love my Trxus MTs
The KM2's are nice, pops has em and likes em, smooth ride, not loud. I have the MT/R's with Kevlar on the Power Wagon and they are nice also. Don't think you can go bad either way.Quote:
Originally Posted by breckboarder55
Dont you like to pond hop as well? i dont have any experience with either, but i heard the MT/R's dont do so swift in the mud. ask karl.
GM guru's:
pros and cons of a LT1?
a guy wants to trade me a 1995 LT1 to what he claims came out of a police caprice. 70k miles. complete engine with comp and wiring harness. what is worth? worth holding onto? im leary of a police engine that has 70k because i know the hours are 10 fold that.
PROS : They are ****in' sweetQuote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
Seriously though, the LT1 in Caprice's and cop cars have iron heads. The ones in the camaros are aluminum, so the camaro ones are slightly more desirable. LT1's make good power and are a good engine. In recent years the 5.3's have become more popular.
Price, I would say for a complete (harness, intake, etc..) "iron head" LT1 market price would be about $800. $500 would start to be the line for a "good deal".
For reference I picked up my "aluminum head" complete with tranny for $600 5 years ago. It has been sitting next to my chevelle making "vroom" noises ever since...
my parts are worth about ~$500-550 that he wants to trade for. i have a 700r4 and np208 at my expense. damn it, i dont want to build another truck!Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
swap the coils around first, if it follows it to the cyl that you swapped it to, then its the coilQuote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
I loved my 33" MT/R's
Yeah 33s are good for a DD anything bigger and you put a lot more stress on other parts and you won't be as reliable, I would go with some km2sQuote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
Yokohama Geolander A/TQuote:
Originally Posted by breckboarder55
I've been running the same 31" set for almost three years now and I love them. Great off-road, handle themselves well on the street, and are wearing like iron, and were pretty cheap, to boot. I highly recommend them. 33" is the biggest they go.
If you want cheap I would try out those re tread mtr looking tires. They have gotten great reviews on all the boards and I have seen them wheel and they hook up well.
Edit: ithink the name of the company is tread wright.
I am a big fan of KM/2s. I get 50k-60k out of them on my truck. Quiet enough for a mud tire, and do great in every terrain I have put them in .Quote:
Originally Posted by breckboarder55
I don't have any long term experience with the mtr's but I think they are to soft to get 50-60k out of like the bfg. Km/2's all the way.
charlie truck, my truck, dad and brother all have BFGs. pricey but they do seem to last forever.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
dannys mom has some ~33 BFG ATs on her tahoe with something like 80k + on them and they still look alright.
i know my dads have made it on to a second vehicle already.
EDIT:
and if you look at my avatar you can see that they will hold up to coming off your axle and hitting a house :flipoff2:
High mileage vehicle right there!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by J Cooper
i bought them from 8runner!?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
how do they hold up to dry rot? :flipoff2:
speaking of i am free the next couple of weekends, i SERIOUSLY need to make a trip up.
Well, I'm not really interested in any A/T's, and tires are something I don't mind spending more money on.
FWIW
KM/2's look pretty tits on any vehicle
Even a Jetta?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
are fj80 birfields as ****ty as mini truck birfs? I could save money on the rovota conversion by using stock 80 birfs instead of longfields, but if its a downgrade fook that.
Especially a Jetta :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
you gaht lockah? stock mini birfs are pretty much indestructible on 33s with open diff. FJ80s are a bit stronger. You could also get the stockers heat/cryo treated and they will be pretty dam strong
How are mini-truck birfs ****ty?Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
Yes the 80's birfs are stronger.
no lockah. maybe sour grapes, but I don't want that tumor hanging off the side of the diff anyway. Open for now, ARB later. cryo might work, who does that?Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
never heard anything good about them, seen lots of people changing them on the trail.Quote:
Originally Posted by FJAggie07
Bobby Long might still treat stockers, if not, see if you can get in touch with Dan Bell...I may be able to scrape up his contact info. That's what I'm running in at least one side of the uglytruck. Marlin used to sell his birfs but has his own now I think.
the shafts are the same size but the bell is considerably larger. pretty sure you would be ok. change out the drive flanges for mini-truck lockouts.
has anyone heard anything on Spartan Lockers?
vendor on pirate quoted me $285 shipped for one for my D60 front in the ford.
everything ive read seems to be good.
why would I want to do that on an all wheel drive trck? is it going to break on the street?Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
never mind then. didnt know the rovers were full time AWD.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
Is there a vendor online that sells cheap reman or new fuel injectors? A set of 8 from the parts store is ~$300.
Anyone ever redrill a leaf spring to move the center pin? I am thinking about doing this on one or two leafs to make them match up with my waggie leafs.
are the injectors for the 98 or something else
get a good drill bit and there would probably be a weak spot where the old hole is