I think I pretty much have everything except for a little steel.
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I think I pretty much have everything except for a little steel.
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/axlewrap/
good down-to-earth explanations
i wish you guys would hurry up and figure this out so i can copy it and make it better. :flipoff2:
you aren't running antiwrap bars?
2 more good resources:
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index...c=7088.new#new
http://www.mindspring.com/~jayk3/toyota/rear_susp.htm
guess I better go ahead and actually do it now...
you have to get much more weld area than what they were doing for a Toyota axle. I have seen many of these ripped out of the housing. The more surface area the better...
I thought I had a ton of area with my upper links but I still cracked the housing and had to fix it.
heres the front bar on that red bent and twisted jeep. yeah, its not the best design, but how much do you really need on the front?
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...2/f7a59844.jpg
you would be amazed how much a front can wrap up. I can literally watch mine doing it since the visibilaty is so good. In the case of the jeep, add in big tires, a big engine, and what looks like relatively thin, flexy springs, and I could definitely see the need for those.
Mine was enough to rip off my front mount (at the skid plate) then later to rip off the top tabs off the axle. Maybe not the best welding, but they were on there pretty solid and they got ripped smooth off. That design still gives a good amount of leverage and works well in tight spaces. For leverage, I still like the radius arm setup with the shackle.
ok, going to try to get one whipped up tonight for my truck. I'm having a hard time envisioning a crossmember with the exhaust/driveshaft/etc. Think I could make a super cool birdhouse mount on the inside of the passenger frame rail with nothing over to the other side and make it survive? I could catch the top, bottom, and side of the frame for the frame mount. Ideas? The tranny crossmember is WAY too far forward on a scout to use for this.
cook did something really similar to what you are describing, see if you can find anything about it in his build up
this is the only pic i could find. . . http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthre...t=6650&page=22
you mean this pic :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showpost...&postcount=329
If you can't make a mount like Cook's work then you could do a side mount like you mentioned. Are scout frames boxed?
Just my idea but you could cut a piece of 2" square tube at an angle like I pictured below but without the cutout for heims. Weld it to the frame then cut 2 pieces of flat stock, one for a gusset to weld from the top/outside edge of the square tube to the frame. The other as a cap covering the back of the tube and gusset to the frame (kinda like a rectangle with a right triangle on top). That would give you a solid flat mount to hang a shackle from.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...05/cage164.jpg
broke that one. don't make the bar like that. I used an existing cross member behind the cab. if you just make a mount off the side of the frame, i'd be wary of tweaking the frame with torque if its not boxed and thick. that mount on the 9 worked the chunk nuts loose regularlyQuote:
Originally Posted by J Cooper
what broke?
...
I've always kind of wondered if a Watt's link turned parallel to the frame would work for anti-wrap. Just build a truss on top of the pumpkin for your pivot, then you could run some somewhat short links to crossmembers just in front and just behind the axle.
Could work for situations where you need to fit in a more confined space...just throwin it out there.
Scout frames are boxed and fairly thick. Fred had suggested putting a piece of pipe through the frame and tying that into my mount so that it couldn't tweak three sides of the frame, or rip it apart where it's welded together. I've got a pretty cool idea in my head, maybe I'll just make it and if it doesn't work we'll just hit the drawing boards again.
should have done it more like this
thats how it is now
I think that it would work just fine. I like the pipe idea through the frame, and add some internal stiffners to the mount to make it solid. I envision it like this
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...framemount.jpg
and just keep it as close to the frame as possible.
I had the same experience as Cook. Mine snapped where the tubes met. But the new one meets at the back by the heim and works well. No snapping yet. It's very simple.
After talking it over with St. John, decided to run a tube through the frame from one side to the other and attach it that way. He didn't think there would be a way to mount to just one framerail and not rip it off or twist something. Had to dimple the exhaust to get it ran, but it should be magnificent.
:gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
http://tamor.org/forums/showpost.php...&postcount=288
Beat the **** out of this design all weekend in Clayton. Lost front wheel drive, so I had to hammer on it a bunch with only 2wd. I wish I had made an anti-wrap bar 3 or 4 years ago when I bought the RE joint. It took all the hop out of the rearend. Another cool side effect is that it will now lay rubber in 2wd high with the brake applied, which I took full advantage of. If you are running an SOA with flat-ish springs and don't have one, get one.