anti wrap bar cross member and mount on axle.
i actually ended up redoing this by welding the tube to the bottom of the two bushings so that i could run exhaust and i could later replace with flat skid
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anti wrap bar cross member and mount on axle.
i actually ended up redoing this by welding the tube to the bottom of the two bushings so that i could run exhaust and i could later replace with flat skid
the following all took place the week before clayton... so the pictures that i do have might be mixed up a little.
i will take pics of whatever i did not take pics of before the trip and add them later this week
yj brakes (custom bracket--- will fix later)
new meats 42" TSL on H2 rims
winch, steering, driveshafts..... everything else
more stuff
(will get better pics)
more pics, shims, shock hoops, drive shafts, fenders
i think this was december 10th
more ...
more... about 2 am of the 11th
couple more including stupid ram mount
on thurs, we finally mounted the gas tank, blead the brakes and steering and mounted the tires... drove it on to the trailer with no exhaust = awesome!!
left houston at 9:15 after picking up cjs trailer.
got to dallas about 1 am
crashed
woke up
took to get exhaust put on
****ed off and drank beer in addison
left dallas at 3 got to clayton at 7.
took it off trailer
drove it to a&a
... it worked.
here are a couple gay poser shots from clayton
i took it easy to make sure everything worked... did great except i shot out a motor mount bolt (one bolt i did not check) so we had to ratchet strap it down... this caused the gay jeep shift linkage to pop out when in a bind... no big deal i had a pit crew.
so on my way to find the cool kids and do some real wheeling sophia sheared off my ram mount bolt (grade 8 5/8") she only drove like 30 feet
:flipoff2:
it was actually that ****ty design noted in previous post... so we put a new bolt in and messed around some more.
other than that it kicked ass
i will get pics of the exhaust, brakes, "fuel cell", new fuel lines and brake lines, and whatever else i did those last couple of days and get them posted
specs
85 CJ7 LAREDO
304 AMC V8 - bored over .30, cam, motorcraft carb with electric fuel pump
TF 999 auto trans
Dana 300 t-case -1310 yokes, CV rear
108" wheel base
42x15x17 TSL
17" H2 rims
12k lbs mile marker winch
front
--- 84 cucv gm dana 60, full rebuild, 35 spline carrier-- welded, 4.56 gears, 35 spline 4340 chromo shafts, 35spline warn premium hubs, ballistic fab high steer arms- no kingpin spring, 7/8" TRE's, .250 wall DOM steering, all new brakes, 1350 yoke, ballistic fab 3/8" diff cover.
rear
---84 cucv gm 10.5" 14bolt, full rebuild, 35 spine carrier, detroit locker, 4.56 gears, disk brakes from a 77 k30 front, ballistic fab 3/8" diff cover, 1350 yoke.
suspension
--rancho 44044 spings, bilstein 12 travel shocks (22" ride hight), 6" shackles, hangers all recessed, 8 deg rebicon express shims up front, .250 wall DOM antiwrap bar rear.
driveshafts
--- houston drivetrain
front-- extra long splines, 1350 axle end, 1350-1310 t-case end 37 1/2" ride length
rear -- 1350 axle end, 1310 cv t-case end 30 1/2" ride length
steering
---PSC full hydraulic steering. 2.5" single ended ram, p-pump and external cooler-under bumper.
.250 wall DOM tie rod with 7/8" TREs
blue torch fab front bumper--modified, BTF flat fender kit and comp corners.
YJ master cylinder and brake booster-
4 wheel disk with line lock front. 3/16 to 4an lines
stock gas tank mounted in bed for now
all new fuel lines and brake lines down frame, new fuel pump, all new motor wiring
-----------
ran out of time for taurus electric fan that runs off 2 relay controls (no switches to forget)
rear bumper, paint, lots of grinding, new front shackles, new sliders (boat side style), grill hoop, redo rear brake plumbing
next is either pull motor and clean up for ditch the whole drive drain.
thinking about either old vortec motor, 5.3, 6.0 / nv4500 / stak or dana 300 with 4.1
more clayton pics
and one old school pic for those of you that remember it this way
back when my 29s were bad dudes!!!
Looks like Danny did most of the work :flipoff2:
he just doesnt know how to use the camera :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
<redneck voice on>
Sweet, so when we going to the creek?
<redneck voice off>
Pretty quick buildup, look's good!
I like the frenched in the front spring/shackle mounts to help with the pinion angle and ride height. The BTF fullwidth kit I'm using increased the overall front spring arch which caused the negative pinion angle.
You still tearing it back down for paint or just covering things up and touch up the overspray like me? :D
Do you have the contact info for the guy you bought the springs and stuff from in Austin?
i will probably pull it apart... have not really thought about it yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
this is the guy out of austin, i mainly just bought axle rebuild parts from him
pretty cool guy, he can find you anything if you need it
http://www.4wdfactory.biz/
the springs i got from summit
they are just rancho 44044s
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Thanks man.
After seeing the 4wdfactory link I remembered that I ordered my 60 rebuild kit from them 2 summers ago. Totally forgot about their site.
I checked some sites for the rancho 44148's that I need but it looks like I'll be special ordering them as no one has them in stock.
Give me a shout when you get back from Port A/Corpus. I'll be hanging out and working on the jeep.
I want to see more pics of the calendar on the wall:flipoff2:
dear samantha,
I have decided to call of the wedding. I would not like to be married and have to jerk off to pictures of nudie calendars. Seriously, this is like jerking off in the 3rd person. And mr. that's gay.
Sorry for the inconvenience,
JDG
PS. sorry for jacking up your thread coop.
I like the location of your steering valve. Looks like it will work with inner fenders too. How many turns lock to lock?
What's the deal with 1350 at the axle ends? Just because that's what the axles had? It seems I replace the axle end more than the other with my 1310s.
i think it was like 4 or 5 lock to lock... i did not countQuote:
Originally Posted by eight
i replaced all 4 yokes.
the 60 had a 1310 on it so i replaced it with a 1350
the 14 had a 1350 with straps so i pu on one with u-bolts
the front 300 had straps so i got one with u-bolts
and i put a cv yoke on the rear of the 300
i did the conversion joint on the front so that if i change t-cases i could just convert to all 1350... that is if the lengths are close enough to match up
You want to sell me d60 30 spline stubs? You've seen my spares.
Got any displacement or flow specs on that power steering pump you used?
this is the pump i used
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/sp1405...can-p-274.html
now that i think about it i think lock to lock was less than 4
this is what i have:
bore 2.5"
shaft dia. 1.5"
length 8"
volume 25.12 -- piston area x stroke
steering force retract 4710
steering force extend 7359
pump pressure 1500
volume of cylinder/ cu in of orbital = turns lock to lock
25.12/7.6 = 3.305
At that you have 3.3 turns lock to lock in the retract direction, extending you would have 39.28 cu. in. volume for 5.17 turns. At the moment I think I will be using the double ended 2.5 bore x 1.5 shaft x 8" stroke cylinder. I figure with using the double ended cylinder I will completely avoid the problem you were having with the tie rod twisting and it doesn't cost much more anyway.
no that is LOCK TO LOCK.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
its only 3.3 turns TOTAL
the only reason i had the problem with the tie rod twisting is because of psc's little adapter... it put all the force 2" away from the tie rod. it has nothing to do with the ram
edit:
wow im an asshole.
so apparently when i was in a hurry ordering parts i just "ordered" that adapter without reading.
i guess i was seeing what i wanted it to read
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/bktr01...ter-p-453.html
its not a "ram mount" its a draglink-tierod adapter.
:rolleyes:
drag link / hydraulic ram....I don't see why it would make a difference. In fact, I think the drag link would be worse cause it's most likely not coming in parallel to the tie rod like a ram would.
thats another factor in the added force that bolt had.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
i need to bring that ram mount back about another inch or so.
it is not perfectly parallel right now.
i think i should jump on at least putting some primer on these bare parts and move it back in the garageQuote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
this lovely houston weather since clayton has put a nice patina on all the parts :gigem:
front brake lines
the adapters from the caliper to 4AN line were $25!!!
exhaust
2.5" w/turbo muffler--- muffler guy snuck that in on me. i like the way it sounds though
not sure what to do about the tail pipe in the back though
you can not see any of it unless you crawl under the jeep... so i guess its fine how it is.
(do not look at dannys fuel pump wiring job--- that was 7pm on friday IN clayton on the trailer) we picked it up on the way to replace the old one that went bad
i think he was ready to start drinking :flipoff2:
http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachme...1&d=1229962096Quote:
Originally Posted by J Cooper
I don't know if the picture linked, but is the bevel on the arm in the picture (looks to be the passanger side steering arm) on the wrong side? Thought it should be on the tire side.
ya,Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
its wrong, i will get another arm later....
when i ordered them i got them because it gets rid of the king pin spring, i did not realize that they were beveled.
the kit has 1 long arm and 1 short arm with 1 hole ( i did not like the way it looked) , so i ordered 2 driver side arms not thinking. <-- guess i actually wanted 2 passenger side arms, either way its wrong
oh well
haha, sounds like something I would do. :gigem:
it should be an easy change, if they won't make you a long one the way you need it, I am sure they can send you one with no bevel and you could get it machined yourself localy.
actually i just wanted shorter ones, i use the holes closest to the knuckle and i did not want all that extra arm sticking out.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
but like i said i ordered the wrong sides anyways.
i guess i could get the correct one (short) and have the other side machined down to match
power steering cooler
... and look it drives right into the garage with 2" to spare :gigem:
finally got the will to mess with the jeep again.
pulled off the steering to redo the tie rod ram mounts and extend the ram mount on the axle to make it more parallel.
check out the bolt we put in on the trail :gigem:
that's some serious force!