It is an electric fan.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
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It is an electric fan.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
Yup, jump it to the battery first to see if the motor is ****ed, then check the relay and then whatever switch it uses.
I used to think autos were the way to go, esp for hill starts, but after riding in rigs geared low enough, i am a big fan of the manuals. both can be effective, just a matter of what characteristics are more important to you. Things I think of off the top of my head are auto tranny heat, not being geared low enough for a stick, engine braking, etc.
With enough gear reduction a stick can be just like an automatic. In double low I never have to worry about stalling out, or starting the truck on a hill. Even if I throw it in third the thing ain't going to stall out. I love it!
Manual idles through most of the trails. Sometime you have to push the gas with an auto. I'm lazy. When it gets really crooked an auto might be nicer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
down hill kind of sucks if you forget to put it in 1. I like everything else better about the auto. No more shake leg.
Have you seen transmission heat while wheeling be a problem on anything with the factory drivetrain?
my truckQuote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
you also have a doubler then additional reduction in the crawl box. even though the trans does have a crap ratio (3.8 i believe). so wouldn't you technically be in triple low compared to stock? you also pay entirely too much for all your parts :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by FJAggie07
on the issue with the auto, im under the impression the the TC doubles the the ratio as cox said. I may be wrong, but isnt an auto less harsh on the drive train and absorbs some of the shock load?
and you have an argument like this for manuals:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4ygskAqoO0
Maybe compared to stock, but in my truck when I throw my two shifters into low I call it Double Low. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
I may pay a lot for my parts, but they don't break, and I don't have to trailer my **** back home after half a trail and let it sit in my driveway for a year until I decide to part it out. :flipoff2:
EDIT: Wait now that I come to think of it, you guys are paying between $800-$1000 for a 4:1 gear set, and then another couple of hundred for an adapter, AND THEN you let them sit on your work bench for a month while you figure out how to put it together. I spent $1500 for a 4.7:1 crawl box that bolted right up to my tranny and t-case. That makes sense. :flipoff2:
not factoryQuote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Are there any machining shops around here that do engine work?
Cooks?
what are you looking to get done? rebuild....
villas, what do you need done?
Please do not waste money on that motor. First ask Eckert or Colman to come take a look at it before you tear anything apart. Next don't waste money rebuilding an m block. They pop up on Houston craigslist pretty often for a couple hundred bones, or find a used 460 to put in there.
wheres thatQuote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
It is on the east side of Texas in bryan across from whataburger. I work at Cooks if you are really set on getting it rebuilt than come see us.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
how about you answer the question first.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
I don't see why you think it needs to be rebuilt. The problem is not the motor, its the wiring.
Does it smoke?
Does it have good power?
Have you done a compression test?
You are jumping the gun here. You said it ran well on the way back from waco so why would it all the sudden need a rebuild?
Don't expect the amount of power that you felt from my engine at all. because it is old, it doesn't have any upgrades to it and you are running stock gears with 35" tires.
Where did I say I was going to get a rebuild? Nowhere.
Thanks and :flipoff2:
it would be a whole lot easier, on yourself and everyone else, if you mentioned what the hell you were doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...m/OrlyBaby.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
I need to get the spark plug hole on the #4 cylinder rethreaded.
If your gonna be a cryptic wanker about it go open up a phonebook next time.
burnQuote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
then what you need is a mechanic, or just a helicoil kit. No machine shop wants to work on a dam motor while it's still in the truck. I honestly don't know why we are still trying to help your dumb ass.
Wow... all this just for asking where a reputable machining shop is located?
I've looked into Helicoil kits, and from what it looks like, it's just a cheap redneck-fab patch to getting it done the right way.
And I'm not taking them the truck with the engine in it.. I'm removing the head and taking it to Cooks.
Why are there so many assholes here?
Oh, and thank you to tommy and bcolman for answering my question
/rant
whats exactly wrong with the head that would need a helicoil? Broken/stripped exhaust stud?
look below his lame picture, i missed it too.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
a helicoil is the correct fix for a stripped spark plug. That is what the machine shop will do if you bring the head in. Maybe a tap-sert but Vilas or Cooks will probably just helicoil it. Save yourself some money and trouble and just buy the helicoil kit
edit: and don't tell me this is the first time that being a smart ass has caused problems for you
thanks jerry.
How do you know that threads are boogered, if a plug is in there now then how is to messed up? Is the plug cross-threaded in the head and just spins maybe? It's got to be an iron head, how was this accomplished?
if you would have told us what you want to do we could tell you how to fix it. There is a spark plug rethread kit at oreillys that will save you alot of trouble. but go ahead and do it your way and make it difficult
the plug just spins. Man you guys sure get your panties in a wad quick. Hot Pocket, you get everyone stirred up as much as kox or hippie does when they get on one of their rants. :gigem:
that sucks, head has to come off then (regardless of who fixes it).Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
No, with Cocks and Eric, people will take sides. No one sides with Hot Pocket, ever.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Sides or no sides (I like mine to be fries and fried corn on the cob if it matters), I just like the drama that ensues. :D
man oh man just wait till i get drunk and reread this thread
no ****. ill be looking forward to a CL posting of a 1979 4 spd bronco that "needs minor engine work".Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
besides a Heli-coil, or time-cert as eric said, what do you think the machine shop will do?
I'm also betting you stripped it out yourself. considering it ran fine then you replaced the wires/plugs/etc being a parts monkey :flipoff2:
when he gets done tapping that hole and running a few helicoils into the cylinder, it will be major engine workQuote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
I'm guessing it'll say something more like "strong running 351...ran when I parked it, probably just needs gas"Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
I'm not taking sides here (I already took my side), but I think a heli-coil, if done right is acceptable. A thread cert is a better solution, but I have hell finding them...
If you are going to the trouble of pulling the heads (intake, carb, valve covers, alternator, A/C (if it has it), push rods, etc...... I would pull both heads, have them clean the seats up and put new seals in them.
Oh shiat #4 cylinder is a bitch to get to too. Thats probably why he fauked it up.
Just wrap it in teflon tape and force it in there. You are less likely to fawk something up that way