Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy53002
Thats what I always thoughtQuote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy53002
Thats what I always thoughtQuote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
That is what I always thought too...I'll have to figure out where I had read/heard that. No it wasn't PBB...:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
actually i just have a normal fan on the jeep, but i do have a flex fan on the yota
I don't know but it is one unit that has two relays to control a two speed fan built in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reckless
I just saw it an yanked it
I had a flex fan on my jeep. Not sure if it was original. After eating the radiator too many times due to too close clearance, stock skid plate, and stock motor mounts, I swapped to the electric fans from 03 chevy malibu. I will eventually switch back to a mechanical fan.
why are you gonna switch back
Don't like so much electrical draw. A vehicle should be able to run a long time with dead alternator. Even my fuel injected motor probably pulls only 5 amps or so. The dual electric fans pull roughly 20 amps. Controls are sort of finicky also, could redo the controls, I think it would be better to sense water temp. Definitely grab the factory wiring harness plugs when you get the fans. I use 10ga spade connectors which fit perfectly but they have given trouble in the past.
Can I go straight from the half doors that come with the soft top(TJ), to the full steel doors? Any modification?
As far as I know..yes.
ok. Only reason I ask is because im tired of ****ing with zippers that were never meant to go around corners.Quote:
Originally Posted by TexTJ209
yes the doors are completely interchangeable I had both sets on my jeep.
There are days when i want to sell the whole damn thing...:angry:
Rub a bar of soap on the zippers if they're being bastards. Seemed to help on my old top before I upgraded to a sailcloth.
Ill have to try that. Will silicone spray work also?Quote:
Originally Posted by TexTJ209
yeah silicone spray works pretty well also
It's the only way to get rid of the ghey! :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by NealtheDestroyr
GM D60 hubs and Ford D60 hubs. Is there a difference? One would think they would be .6" longer.
Typical D60 GM D60 rotor and Ford D60 rotor. Rockauto shows different part numbers, but I am curious as to what is different.
I am bascially running a Ford ball joint knuckle, that must use a Chevy spindle. Brake caliper location is set up like a Ford (94-97). Curious as to how running GM outers will work with a Ford caliper location. Confused yet? The axle is a 93 Ford, the knuckle is a Solid Axle Industries Ford ball joint knuckle with high steer arm
i would just call up Solid Axle in the morning and ask them.
the wheel mounting flange is in a different spot on the hub= further out. you can see the difference when they are side by side. I have a couple extra ford one's but no chevy/dodge so I don't know for sure how much but it is different.
Do the GM 60s have some sort of bracket for the caliper that goes on after the spindle but before the hub?
yes i think the order of asymbly is different, cause the backside locating ring on a ford spindle is taller so it will reach the knuckle bore
radiators? jeep needs a new radiator, should I put a one row aluminum or 2 row alumimum. will I notice the difference with the two row?
stock is a one row with plastic tanks
i'll sell ya a dual pass 2 core aluminum one for $100. that ought to keep it cool.
Does it bolt in to a tj
why not put a stock replacement back in?
it fit in an FJ40, aren't you a fabricator by trade now?Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
yeah that is probably what I am going to do but I can get an all aluminum stock replacement the same price as a all metal brass stock replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
I don't what plastic tanks that is what are cracked on mine right now
isthat the original? I think 10 year radiator lifespan is acceptable. I bet its cheap
a new tank is less than 40 iirc with a cleaning
no its actually the jeeps 2nd radiator. They can crimp on new plastic tanks and them not leak?
yeah, i had my old dodge radiator rodded and new tanks put on for around $70. i 'think' i took it to seiger radiator here in bryan.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
been two years w/o any leaks.
sweet too bad I am not in bryan. I just went ahead and ordered a 2 row all aluminum all welded radiator for 145 shipped. Not too bad a deal and it bolts right in to the jeep. Hopefully I won't have any more problems and If I do I can weld them up.
sweet too bad I am not in bryan. I just went ahead and ordered a 2 row all aluminum all welded radiator for 145 shipped. Not too bad a deal and it bolts right in to the jeep. Hopefully I won't have any more problems and If I do I can weld them up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
You can say that again!
Can I use the front output yoke from a 205 on the rear side of the my 205?
i think so. both should be 32 spline.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
can i take the entire bottom end of a 2 stroke engine (minus jug, carb, etc) and leave it in a parts washer w/o any ill effects?
there is a huge accumulation of **** in there and i don't feel like splitting the case and cleaning it bit by bit.
if it's a ford 205 you can as both are 32 spline, 203 front flanges fit on them too.
I don't think the crank seal would like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
learn me karl. crank seal where? between the 2 case halves? what problems would arise from that?Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02