look at "project slinky blue balls" on pirate
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look at "project slinky blue balls" on pirate
For reference:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=551947&
what's wrong with the current coils, good shocks are way more important. there are tons of different tj specific coils to choose from. I would do somthing like chris durham's latest 2 tj's. regular coils and stock boxed frames can look real clean if you take your time and integrate the coil bucket into the shock mount. I would not use coils if you had invisions of mad tube all under the hood because I really don't care for tubular coil buckets, flat plate buckets can much simpler looking and lighter.
Pulled the front axle out tonight and set the Chevy D60 in as well as Dana and I could manage.
Also, I went to Harbor Freight to grab that pair of jack stands since those are the tallest/cheapest I could find. These were on sale in their circular for $72.99, but the girl at the counter rang them up and the price came up as $25.99 so with my 15% off coupon I got them for $23.91... Almost told her to go ahead and ring up another set but I decided not to push my luck. :D
I'm kind of thinking about pulling the body mount bolts off so the frame can come out and I'll have easier access to cutting the rest of the old suspension mounts off. I'm really anxious to get the 60 under it so for now it seems like a good idea to put together a front leaf suspension to match the unengineered rear so it can roll and that step can be finished. Once the drivetrain is in I can worry about something besides simplicity with the suspension after it runs. Looks like the weather might be turning nice so maybe I'll start working on it a little more steadily.
Also, I tried to put the HMMWV wheels on but turns out the stock knuckle is in the way. It's been a while since I looked around but I thought these fit for some reason. Guess I'll need to get new centers or knuckles because it looks like the backspacing of the wheels would be nice to have judging by the width of both axles in proportion to the width of the body.
Ive got a set of 4 stazworks recenters for sale. 60each
will trade for a set of plastic hummer centers
cant remember which ones they are one of these 2
you can look at my build to see how i recentered. the width is just right in my mind. if you stay narrow, you'll rub the frame with the tires. i did a lot of staring and measuring before i made my decision.
It was more of an observation than anything else, but I'll take a look at your wheels for reference. Even if I got it rolling on four tires it's not like it's a high priority project for now... Blake's YJ didn't rub unless he was at full lock/compression so I guess I thought it would work as they are.
Rowdy, I haven't looked at pattern choices in a while but I'll try to check out Pirate... The one on the left looks pretty good.
stazworks has some neat ones and copperhead fab can do what ever ya want. I just got these in a trade and have no use for them
Good deal, I'll check those guys out.
if you decide you want the stock bs, you can cut the stock arm off of the knuckle and run high steer with the correct arms. hubs are gonna stick out and theres no way you'll get shocks between the frame and tire in the rear.
if its a trail only jeep, spacers would be the easy way out. steel preferrably.
Looked at that and thought about it but I'd get some aftermarket knuckles before I did that after seeing a few broken stock ones. I'd prefer not to introduce any additional reason for these to fail eventually...
That's not going to happen.Quote:
if its a trail only jeep, spacers would be the easy way out. steel preferrably.
still plugging along. glad to have cooler weather.
high steer is fine on chevy or dodge knuckles, Id leave em stock bs. how else did you plan on doing the steering? crossover steering probably won't clear the leafs without at least high mounted draglink
I'm planning to run high steer, but the wheels will rub the stock steering mount on the knuckles if I don't change something. I was also looking at the rear tonight and became a little more concerned about tires rubbing the frame without different backspacing.
Just hack em off with a torch like Davido.
Pictures of the front 60 sitting under it. Almost in position, I had things measured out then I bumped it and it almost came off a jack stand. :(
It looks like I'm back to thinking the old suspension will work. I think I can put heims on both ends of the uppers and hook them up to something like the front truss Blue Torch makes. Some coil/lower control arm mounting with involve welding to the diff this way, but I think this would probably happen with anything but leaves.
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...2/DSC00181.jpg
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...2/DSC00182.jpg
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...2/DSC00183.jpg
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...2/DSC00184.jpg
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...2/DSC00185.jpg
Side views and the pitman arm/track bar position as they sit.
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...2/DSC00187.jpg http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...2/DSC00186.jpg
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...2/DSC00188.jpg
Ballistic fab makes some nice brackets and not to badly priced. I have the radius arm brackets and they are well designed
These look pretty good, but I don't know how they'll work on the pass. side of this axle.
Here's what I messed with tonight. Looks like the coils can pretty much mount in the factory position so whatever mounts I go with can be welded to the D60 based on where they are on the D30 laying in the garage.
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...2/DSC00189.jpghttp://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...2/DSC00190.jpg
And here's Dana giving a disapproving look to the way I had the Jeep balanced on a 4x4 to get the coils in there for pictures... Turns out the Jeep is going to be kind of tall. I'll figure out some different coils eventually to get things leveled out once it's closer to rolling on its own, but that's pretty far in the back of my mind right now.
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...2/DSC00191.jpg
No real progress, just working on how to mount the coil and such on the passenger side of the D60. Still not sure, but here's the start. The piece on top of the diff is going to be cut to go up and across the corner where the factory bolt holes are for the spring plate so it can be bolted as well as welded out. From there it'll have a truss following (more or less) the contour of the diff so there will be a flat-ish surface to mount the upper link.
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...2/DSC00195.jpg
complete caddy motor for 2K.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/pts/971565575.html
Hmmm...I wouldn't necessarily call rings and bearings "freshening up".:(Quote:
It should be freshened up a little (rings & bearings)...
Sick fab. There's a fat bead in the first picture that isn't structural, we just wanted to make sure it stuck since I think that was the first attempt at welding plate to the cast diff. The silver lines (one on d-side plate, other is above outer p-side LCA mount tab) are the center lines of where the coils will need to mount. I did my best to mark/measure everything based on where it was on the stock D30 and got it all burned in.
What are you talking about? I didn't weld anything. I just stood there and drank a beer. This is your chicken to **** Brett. :)
No, it doesn't. I don't want my name documented anywhere on this project. :flipoff2:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frederick_Brune
this was interesting, even has the same middle name
Or cut all that crap off so you can put leaf perches on it!
It's been a little over a year since I posted anything here so I decided I should moved the Jeep around a little bit. Replaced the bent rear shackles and and some misc hardware so the rear axle is finally bolted under it again. Got the front control arms half-assed back where they should be, but it seems that some angles have changed drastically due to the size difference between a D60 and the D30 that angles and measurements were copied from.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...g?t=1264386552
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...g?t=1264386587
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...g?t=1264386605
I suppose a truer 4-link with no track bar is in the future. Lower link mounts should work, but I may be replacing the piece that is currently over the diff with one of THESE soon. Was doing some searching around on PBB today and I'm more confused than when I started. I saw a lot of different setups but it looks like the lower arms can stay where they are at the axle end but using a bracket like THIS at the frame would give triangulated uppers and negate the need for a track bar...? I was looking at THIS as an option for uppers only but the current lower control arms are 33" long and from what I was looking at/reading on PBB people are going a bit longer (~40") with lowers and uppers are either about the length of my current lowers or longer.
Couple more of the passenger side.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...g?t=1264387021
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...g?t=1264387057