So Oct. 11th I will be in town for a foosball game. Can I grab it then?
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So Oct. 11th I will be in town for a foosball game. Can I grab it then?
ya, i wont be here but ill clean it up and tell sharpe to give it to you
Karl are you really replacing your throttle body with a clean one instead of cleaning yours? Srsly? Get a can of brakleen and roll of paper towels and get after it :flipoff2:
I have already tried to clean it like that. It requires more than that, it is pretty well fubared. I have tried carb cleaner, then lube it with various penetrating oils. It just sucks
You need it sooner? I could grab it tonight and bring it tomorrow.
If you have time grab, if not I will get it in a week.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
Picked the throttle body up on Sunday, thanks Clarke.
* Throttle Body doneQuote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
* Throttle Cable fixed
* Driver's seat done - The seat frame was cracked, had to weld it up
* Fan Shroud looks good
* Ran to issues on the power steering, fixed it here http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthre...856#post212856
* Wiring harness for Cheby should be in Saturday
* Working on brakes tonight, Carrie can help me bleed them tomorrow
* Got the radio in, put it in this weekend
* Check trailer bearings this weekend
* Load cooler on Thursday!
I am getting excited. I gotta check you new PS out.
And by weld you mean ziptie?Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
no, it would be bailing wire and jb weld, if he did a high class job on it
No, I actually got the mig out for this. In the garage it is easy, any other time it would have been silicone....
weak
I splurged and put new calipers on the front, they were $15 each. The old ones bleader was screwed up, so I figured what the hell. Also a picture of the power steering fluid crapped out on the ground.
Later I decided the klogger needs some thump. I mentioned earlier I had purchased a hi performance radio with 4 speakers (it cost $85 total plus shipping, very performance....) I was faced with a problem. I wanted outside speakers plus inside ones. Also I wanted to be able to turn the outside speakers off, so I went to work.
I cut these holes in the back cab and made some kustom speaker boxes.
Next I installed the kustom boxes and speakers
Finally I put the head unit, the 2 chrome switches turn the outside speakers off.
on the calipers did you get the ones with the steel piston or the ones with the craptastic phenolic pistons where they melt and get stuck
They looked steel, but I did not know there was a difference. They were the cheapest O'reilly's had. I have a Dana 60 for the front, just not sure when I will put it in, so I am not concerned about the TTB lasting forever. I had to replace the calipers because stopping was sucking and I did not want to do a reverse Fred on any hills in Clayton.Quote:
Originally Posted by TMatheaus
look at the part number on the box, if there is an s behind the number then they are steel, more than likely they were the phenolic ones
Seems the phenolic are pretty common and would be fine unless they are getting heavy duty use.
Looking on O'Reilly's site I would say they are phenolic. I don't think it will be an issue, the Klogger is not a street vehicle.
Nitro Express ride round 2!
karl you may have to run the beer cooler half full...or half empty. However you want to look at it.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Seth
I will load it full, and empty it into my belly....
I put a quick connect thing hooked directly to the battery on the klogger and wired up the winch controller for dash control. For now it is all removable, if/when I permanently mount a winch I can use the controller wires and terminate them in the solenoid box.
I had some issues with where to put the controls in the cab. I had to remove a piece of the dash and make a little pan out of sheet metal. There is a switch that "arms" the controls. This switch is 90 degrees of the other switch so it can not be easily bumped. The other switch, is winch in and out. The switch is hooked to red and green lights. The green light indicates the winch is pulling in (truck is going forward) and the red is the opposite.
I did similar on the jeep except I used a push/pull switch for the on/off. You'd have to accidentally pull it to power the in/out switch.
Well, I think I found the noise in the rear end.....
When tightening the ring gear one should do which of the following:
A) Torque studs to over 100 ftlbs
B) Clean old oil off
C) Use lock tight
D) All of the above
E) Drink a beer
Apparently someone thought it was option E.... It actually ate the head off of one of the bolts. Surprisingly the ring gear looks ok. Sterlings are tuff...
After the creek I am changing all fluids, what do you think of the front diff fluid?
Also I had some charging issues at the creek. Upon returning home I checked the "warn" quick connects and found it to be burned. I had another so I replaced it. I still needed to re-spool my winch cable so I did that and the new one messed up to. Look at the picture! Anyone have issues like this? My original connector on the winch had no issues. Did warn start making these crappy?
I have the NAPA brand ones. I figure they are all the same though. The NAPA here has them in stock.
Are they different sizes, or you just holding that one closer to the camera? Is the side that burnt the positive side?
did you get that sterling from frick? if so thats the one i sold him. and i dont think anyone had messed with the gears when i got it and i dont think frick did either. those ring gear bolts just have a tendency to back out. d70 ring gear bolts are the fix for that
They are the same size, it is an optical illusion. Both of them are burnt on the positive side, the one still attached to the truck burned while just spooling my winch in with no load!Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
I bought it from Frick, it had 3.55 gears in it, not sure where he got it from, but it is possible that it is your axle.Quote:
Originally Posted by william_ace
Luis said this happens a lot when people do burn outs with them! Which one of you little bastards was abusing my $40 axle!
Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
if this is out of the beach truck.... yes many many burnouts
no it is was the one from will. i had some burnouts done but not near what the beach truck axle went thru. i gave karl some 4.10's for it months ago to remedy the problem.
Jones and I discovered the issue with these last weekend. Turns out the jack ass who put them together did not push the connector all the way in to make good contact.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
If anyone needs me I will be going through old threads deleting anywhere that I admitted to crimping and putting these together....
This weekend I did some work on yee old Klogger. It has had an overheating issue off and on. At Trees I attributed it to the timing, but just to be safe I went ahead and changed the thermostat and water pump. I mean hell the water pump is like $30 new... I also changed the timing chain, it was a bit loose, but not horrible.
I upgraded the alternator to a Ford G3. You can read about it hear:
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthre...843#post235843
As it turns out driving through 3 to 4 feet of muddy water at spring creek is not as cool as you would think. I mean after you change your alternator, solenoid, and starter, it does not seem cool!
And the overheating problem was actually caused by....
A fan clutch.