Why build it once when you can break **** and spend more time and money on it later, right?
Printable View
Why build it once when you can break **** and spend more time and money on it later, right?
If it breaks at a shop that might not be such a bad plan but if it breaks, it will be on the trail. You do not have the means to fix a broken frame on the trail and judging by the way you handled your front axle coming apart at Soggy Bottom and your tierod getting Fubar'd at K2, I'd say minimizing the chance of trail breakage would be a prudent decision.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
I thought that was the point of off-roading: build something as best you can then drive the hell out of it until it breaks and then build it stronger?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
Even KOH rigs and trophy trucks break ****, if your worried about something breaking you have the wrong ****ing hobby.
or better yet why don't some people with experience or know-how offer some solutions of how to plate the frame or add some bracing?
Saying "fukkit" and not adding a crossmember or any bracing is not building it the best you can. Sure random **** breaks and we all know that but when something fails after three people have pointed out the problem and offered suggestions to fix it, and you chose to not do anything about it, that just makes you look like a 'tard.
Saying "more bracing" is a piss poor suggestion and I don't think anybody here, so far at least, is doing what Tommy is doing. What Tommy and I have done is to take a proven design (cage and james duff) and made it bigger so it can grab more of the frame. I have yet to see anybody offer any evidence that this design is prone to failure, but if it does or even looks like it might more bracing can be added down the road.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
IMO I think we greatly improved the design of the RA mounts over what James Duff did.
Now Will did have a transmission cross member right behind the RA mounts, but is was not connected in any way. And another thing I have been wondering about is how much side-to-side load will the heim transfer to the frame? seems like most load would be in-line with the frame, especially that the RAs are nearly perpendicular to the frame rails.Quote:
Originally Posted by william_ace
This has gotta be one of the dumbest things I have read in a while, and you aren't a dumb person Travis, I know this.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
I am worried about something breaking and I have two ****ing rigs, in case one breaks I have a backup. Laugh all you want but that is what it has come to. I want my **** built right the the FIRST time so I don't have to do a trail fix in the hot sun. Tacoma's have a proven history of bending frames so my frame is plated Front and Rear. I know it is no SUPER DUPER Bronco but the force seen via leaf springs on a much lighter Tacoma in my opinion is not near as detrimental as the force provided by radius arm straight back into a frame.
The idea of oh I don't want to do that now bit me in the ass just in March. I didn't replace both of my front birfields with Longfields when I broke my first and the other one lasted 11 months before it blew in March and I had to spend three hours on the trail cleaning out a bell and manipulating a new shaft in getting dirty and nasty. Had I done it right when I had the chance and opportunity I wouldn't have been in that spot. Do it right the first time.
NOW, ya'lls current way may be the right way I honestly don't know, I just had problems with this way of thinking.
How are those wheel studs working out for you?:flipoff2:Quote:
I want my **** built right the the FIRST time so I don't have to do a trail fix in the hot sun
Really? that is the dumbest thing you have read in a while? I've spent some time talking to a lot of big time fabricators and that is what it all boils down to. I was trying to get a 6 inch kit for a dodge from Sage Carli but he wasn't ready to start selling them and they have spent the last 2 years building, testing, breaking and rebuilding... and it's a radius arm coil spring suspension too.Quote:
Originally Posted by FJAggie07
We did our homework, built something we think will work and now we want to test it.
EXACTLY MY POINT! You do break **** on the trail but you want it done right the first time! You don't plan going into it that you are going to break, you plan as best you can to make sure nothing breaks!Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
BTW the wheel studs were a ****ing fluke. Put a tampon in your tranny already damnt! :flipoff2:
Travis, like I said if you read to the bottom, I don't know if ya'lls game plan is flawed, I merely disagreed with your statement of "I thought that was the point of off-roading: build something as best you can then drive the hell out of it until it breaks and then build it stronger?". The way ya'll are building could be right, but if you can build it stronger from the start I would highly recommend it. Since people are saying it could be stronger if built XXXX way, then I would probably heed their advice. Me personally I want to build it as STRONG as possible right out of the box, because I have had to fix on the trail MULTIPLE times because it wasn't strong enough the first time. Just experience coming out only...Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
I did read the bottom, I guess our summary (probably a better word choice out there) of off-roading is different. Even the new version of the XXX traction draglink kit, that we are using, came about after Toby Lavender built something he thought would work, then saw that it wasn't and improved it.Quote:
Originally Posted by FJAggie07
The discussion that I have been trying to start several times in this thread is that I don't know of a way to strengthen the frame without an extensive amount of work and costs. From my experience you cannot just plate a small portion of the frame. What you end up with is a rigid section in the middle and flexy ends, this is very prone to cracking where the plating stopped. If you plate the whole frame without redesigning the cross members or adding a cage the cross members will be prone to cracking.
A cross member could help distribute load, maybe, but you would not want it too rigid and I just feel that for now it is unnecessary and we could focus our efforts elsewhere.
thummas, go make.
Attachment 18693
flat part of frame could bend upward without.
fuel and brake lines can go behind or over. notch inward section for clearance if necessary.
Thanks Flem. First constructive comment in 2 pages. That may be a good alternative
Than wouldn't that would put all the rotational force on top bend? Also the bracket has extra bracing built in to help prevent the bottom flat piece bending up.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
and what Tommy said