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I am away from the garage right now, but is there a fill hole for the output housing? Or just add fluid through the speed sensor hole/vss hole? It is well above the actual fill hole for the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
I am getting a 'whine' when driving it around, like I forgot fluid somewhere. Running 80w90 in both the 203 and the 205.
On mine there is only one place to fill the 205
Pruski's in Kocuisko.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
there are open slots in the bottom and top of the output housing for oil to splash in. check the idler shaft bearings, almost no play front to back of the idler gear is factory recommended. there is also a small roller bearing in the front of the output housing that has tiny rollers bout an 1" long that like to break
Anybody know the size and taper of a 2005 superduty drag link TRE? specifically the ball joint at the pitman arm
The TRE looks so close to the same size as one on a 79 bronco I'm wondering if the pitman arm could be reamed to use the factory superduty stuff. Would there be any thing wrong with doing this?
I used one for a while. Thought it was the same taper as stock jeep or 96 bronco. Never loosened up, guess it could have been different. Sure is a nice heavy arm.
Beadlocks, so I have a set of 16.5" Trail Ready Beadlocks. 3 of the 4 are fine, but I have one that I can not get to seal worth a shat. Tommy got it to seal for about 2 days, but then once it leaked down it started leaking really bad. This weekend I took it apart, cleaned the crap out of the tire and rim, bought all new bolts, torqued them down properly (cross pattern sequence to 20 ftlbs) and the SOB still leaks. It seams to be from the same spot on the beadlock (not the tire, so it is not a rip in the tire). The aluminum bead lock is pretty coned.
Suggestions?
JB weld or RTVQuote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
I was thinking RTV as well. I know that's how my buddy Casey had to seal his beadlocks...no idea what brand they are though.
take it to a wheel shop and have it straightened. last time i paid 40 or 50 for an alluminum wheel. there is a place over close to where frick works if you want to make him take it
The last time I put silicone on it, I used like an entire tube, and the f'er still leaked!
what about just installing oba? or buying a new replacement and using the one you have as a spare?
It sucks having to fill up a tire every day. I've got a farmall tractor that my son likes to ride that I have to fill the tire on every time.
This thing leaks down in like 30 minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
Finally went to the j/y and got one of these because the parts guys at the ford dealership are idiots and didn't know about a part used on their trucks for 10 years.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0078.jpg
I gutted it out because i'm using 2005 sd axles with rear disks. Dual piston calipers and 14" rotors.
and then I started to gut the stock 79 bronco combination valve. I could only get #1 out. It looks like the bolt that takes #2 out is not actually a bolt and I cant get it out (at least I haven't tried hard enough to strip it out until I found out if it could come out)
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IV/mcpaint.png
So where i'm at now is I have no limitation on the fluid going to the rear, and some limitation on the front by the factory combination valve.
My question is.....I could just take the lines directly from the m/c to the front and rear axles without a combination or prop valve? What was the purpose of having both going to a single point before distributed to the axles?
If I had a failure from one cylinder of the m/c I would still have brakes on either the front or the rear, which is the whole purpose of the two chamber master cylinder. Right?
Am I just completely off here?
Also, I have an 02 lightning m/c, will that push enough fluid for the dual piston calipers?
In their defense, one of the Ford parts guys (Brian) is a Chevy guy.
I worked with Brian for a year or so and he's not an idiot. He probably just doesn't speak Tummy and you weren't asking the right questions.
So, this brake stuff is not rocket science. My masters have always had a front and rear port. I run the front one to the front axle and the rear one to the rear axle. I also always drop down to the axle with one line near the middle of the axle and then run to the calipers. Typically install a proportioning valve on the rear line to keep those from locking up first depending on the master used
On Pigpen, I dicked with the stock proportioning valve for awhile before saying fukkit. I ended up running all new lines and just put a Jegs adjustable proportiong valve in the rear circuit. The front and rears are not connected at all and my brakes work great. I have hydroboost though.
i am running all stock no mods at the master cylinder with a dodge 60 front and 3/4 ton chevy fronts on the rear and it seems to work great, either that or i dont know its bad so i dont know to fix it
you probably should have read someones build thread who's done this before and ask questions...
lose the stock valve bronco valve and replumb with an adj one. put a linelock in now while you are redoing the lines if you like burnouts. you are going to have to take all the internals out of the 90s ford valve and weld it together where it comes apart. it will leak if you dont. you should have went to the junkyard first to find **** like that. it probably would have cost you 50 from the dealer, and got that same m/c without the cruise switch hole... dummy.
Is there a chart or something to calculate load capacities of air shocks?
Contemplating the idea of a trailing arm, triangulated, 3-link suspension setup for a kayak trailer with air shocks
***. I doubt the time, effort and money in that would not net the benefit over good old leaf springs and shocks. But if you truly are thinking about it go over to http://www.adventuretrailers.com/horizon.html and rub one out to their suspension designs, they are very cool. :)
EDIT: and I have no clue how to calcumalate that. :gigem:
Main reason for doing this over leafs is just that I think it would be something neat and if I did this I would more than likely be sticking with a solid trailer axle, but those are some kick-ass trailers.
Spare tire and high-lift?
I am debating ditching the two and just mounting them on the trailer. By doing this I can shed about 150lbs and a bunch of space, plus a better departure angle. I thought about all the places and times I have been wheeling with the club and I have never used my spare or high-lift ( I can see the highlift being useful in re-beading a tire). I realize this could change in a heartbeat however. I also don't think it would be that inconvenient to run back to the trailer to get either if I did need them. We did this all the time at Trees, Clayton, Katemcy for spare axle shafts, tie rods, ex.
What are your thoughts? Would you keep them on a jeep that is going to be trailered to most trail heads? I looked at a bunch of builds on pirate4x4 and it seems most buggies don't carry spares; only jeeps that see road time do. If I decide to keep the two on the jeep then it would be a swing out tire design as I don't like the idea of mounting the tire in the back due to space and center of gravity.
I carry my spare on my trailer. I keep my Hi-lift on my the rig in an easy to get to location. Used it several times at Clayton for myself and several other times for other people at other parks. It gets used....quite a bit. I'm not running 2diamond trails though.:flipoff2:
who sells spicer joints near bcs?
Brazos valley driveline on 2818
Where is the best (cheapest) place to get poly leaf spring bushings from?
-Cheapest I can find right now is $50 to outfit a set of springs, seems steep considering the springs themselves only cost $40-
Get on Energy Suspension and Daystar's websites and find the p/n you need by dimensions, then google it. Amazon sells them but they don't have application listings.
We have some really cheap red front spring bushing sets ($9.95) if that helps.
For front and rear sets of black poly bushings we're in the same neighborhood that you're looking at.
you can get a setup from summit cheap iirc
Thanks for the offer Brett,
I called 4 wheel parts and for a complete set to pick up next week ran about $40.
Popped the top on a Autolite/Motorcraft 2100 for a rebuild and it had no float in it. Never seen a 2100 with no float before. Ordered a new phenolic float and now I just need the float hinge rod. I've done some googling and can't find just that part. Any ideas on where to find one or why the carb had no float to start with?
Call cooks, they have a bunch of motorcraft carbs rebuilt for sale. I think with a core its like $100
call eckert. i gave him a cooler with 4 torn down 2100's in it.... should have any part you need
I was considering getting a motor craft 2100/2150 to replace my stock Carter. I have read they can handle running at angles better. would that be a good move?
I like the 2100 a lot. Somebody sells a kit specifically for offroad vehicles and it comes with a new float spring and something else I think to make it run better off camber. Pony carbs says it's a better carb than any Holley ever produced. I've never had a Holley so I can't say that they're right but I've never had anything but good things to say about the 2100. I also have a 1100 on my mustang that starts up as well as fool injection once there's fuel in the bowl.
Ok have a problem on the firetruck. It won't start. Replaced the batteries yesterday and the starter is new as of 8 months ago along with the battery selector running the power. The only way it will start is if I throw my battery charger on it and do the quick charge up to 16.5V. If I charge it to 16.4V it won't start, but as soon as it hits 16.5 it cranks right up and runs like a top. Any ideas? Just started doing this in the past month but Sunday is the first game so I need this thing to strt first time every time.
have you tried running jumper cables directly to the starter. Sounds like you have a bad ground or corrosion that is sucking voltage.