Who had March 14th?

Call me and I'll give so some hints on the trac bar bushing replacement.

Ignition column? Dash light gauges?

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Originally Posted by Seth

Ignition column? Dash light gauges?

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no joke, what the hell are you working on?

Bad terminology...

The ignition cylinder used to just be hanging down from the wiring harness under the dash, I got a new ignition lock cylinder with keys and mounted it up in the right place.

The gauges light up when you turn on the headlights

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Originally Posted by RCcola55

**** the haynes manual

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Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02

ditto, buy the ford manual, you can probably find it on ebay.

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Good advice right here

Every time I try to reference the Haynes manual, I find myself with more questions...

Which of these 3?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...sQ5fLiterature

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-...sQ5fLiterature

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-...sQ5fLiterature

CD Manuals generally suck.

all of those suck... go to almost any parts store and look at their selection... should have one there. if not they can order it

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Originally Posted by Shaggy

all of those suck... go to almost any parts store and look at their selection... should have one there. if not they can order it

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The only thing I've seen at Oreillys is the Chilton manuals.. Should I check Napa? What exactly am I looking for here :confused::confused2

a haynes manual... it is like 1-1.5" thick book. just ask at the counter if they can order it... they may not keep them on the shelf anymore as they are not as in demand anymore... they should be able to order one.

http://www.haynes.com/products/productID/160

Haynes manuals are worthless. Spend the money and get the factory ford manuals.

Something like this:

http://www.tias.com/11384/PictPage/1922298514.html

or

http://www.autobooksbishko.com/item.cgi?id=119

Factory manuals are sometimes broken into 2 or 3 "volumes". One for chasis, one for drivetrain, etc... You can probably find these cheaper on ebay.

There is probably someone selling it for $5 on CD. I see on here where someone said the CD sucked. I myself like the CD because it is cheap. I have a lap top and can set it next to me while working on the car...

All that being said it is a 1978 Bronco, how complicated can this thing be?

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Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02

Haynes manuals are worthless. Spend the money and get the factory ford manuals.

Something like this:

http://www.tias.com/11384/PictPage/1922298514.html

or

http://www.autobooksbishko.com/item.cgi?id=119

Factory manuals are sometimes broken into 2 or 3 "volumes". One for chasis, one for drivetrain, etc... You can probably find these cheaper on ebay.

There is probably someone selling it for $5 on CD. I see on here where someone said the CD sucked. I myself like the CD because it is cheap. I have a lap top and can set it next to me while working on the car...

All that being said it is a 1978 Bronco, how complicated can this thing be?

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That second link is perfect! Thanks Karl.

It hasn't been too bad, I feel like Ford put a lot of thought into making these things as simple as possible. I think the manuals are going to come in handy once I can really start tearing this thing apart.

They just didn't have the tech yet to make it any more complicated (or any emissions/safety standards to have to adhere to) :D

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Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH

They just didn't have the tech yet to make it any more complicated (or any emissions/safety standards to have to adhere to) :D

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grant it its a '79 truck, so the basis on how it works is simple to understand. but im pretty sure i pulled 3.82 miles of vacuum hoses and other emissions related bull**** out from under the hood.

HP, if you want it to run better. pull the 80lb cast iron intake and put on a aluminum one w/ a appropriate 4bbl carb.

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Originally Posted by Eckert

grant it its a '79 truck, so the basis on how it works is simple to understand. but im pretty sure i pulled 3.82 miles of vacuum hoses and other emissions related bull**** out from under the hood.

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Agreed from 1975 to about 1985 there was so much emissions crap on there, that is what complicates the thing. However most of it can be removed.

fun fact

77 cat
78 no cat
79 cat

the whole modified family came about because of lame emissions stuff.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eckert

grant it its a '79 truck, so the basis on how it works is simple to understand. but im pretty sure i pulled 3.82 miles of vacuum hoses and other emissions related bull**** out from under the hood.

HP, if you want it to run better. pull the 80lb cast iron intake and put on a aluminum one w/ a appropriate 4bbl carb.

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corrections: "Granted" and "2bbl" :flipoff2:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eckert

grant it its a '79 truck, so the basis on how it works is simple to understand. but im pretty sure i pulled 3.82 miles of vacuum hoses and other emissions related bull**** out from under the hood.

HP, if you want it to run better. pull the 80lb cast iron intake and put on a aluminum one w/ a appropriate 4bbl carb.

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true, The good thing is, you can just take it all off and plug the holes and it doesn't affect anything..........except emissions:flipoff2:

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Originally Posted by stx4wheeler

Tell me what your oil pressure is and I'll tell you what oil to use!!! I'll respond to your pm when I'm back in Texas and not drunk.

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I'm running 10w30 castrol high mileage. Cold it will idle at around 80 psi. Cruising it will bounce between 50-60. Hot Idle will usually be a good 30. I hear those numbers are pretty healthy for these m block motors.

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Originally Posted by Hot Pocket

Now that you mention it, when I first installed the new battery and new alternator, I put the voltmeter to the battery and was reading like 17.8 volts... It seemed a bit high, but I didn't think twice about it until now.

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A month later with the new alternator and battery, and it still charges up to 18 volts. I feel like that is a lot, Anything to be concerned about?

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Originally Posted by uglyota

but his truck's not lifted, right? DW shouldn't even start if the caster's right (i.e. stock), tires are balanced, toe-in is set, and ball joints and tie rod ends are tight. My guess is that this rig just needs some maintenance first (ball joints/TREs)

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What brand for ball joints? Anything I should stay away from? I figure I might as well knock them out while I'm doing bushings.

I finally found the electrical short, and am kicking myself for not realizing it earlier. The PO had tried to wire up his brake lights/tail lights/ reverse lights via 6 different trailer pin adapters. Once I got all that crap pulled, the battery stopped losing charge. :gigem:

Now, I need to wire up the taillights, brake lights, etc. The haynes manual is difficult to work with, but it's getting the job done. I found some useful diagrams on this site if anyone is interested.
http://7879blueovalbronco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6

moog

or Spicer. Not oriellys house brand

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Originally Posted by JBrown89

or Spicer. Not oriellys house brand

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Is it true that Raybestos is just rebadged spicer?

I need some help.

I was replacing the track bar bushings today and I was able to get the nut off of the front of the trackbar bolt. The bolt is stuck in there, I think it has been wallowed out from wobbling so many times. What are my options? Sawzall is out and buy a new bolt?

Here is a picture.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6132688_n.jpg

Why can't you pound it out with a hammer? Will the bolt turn at all?

here's the proper tool.

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:T...edgehammer.jpg

The pitman arm is in the way of hitting it with a hammer. I tried

That bracket/shock mount is held on with two bolts take it off and pound it out.

Turn the bolt in reverse to back it out, it will work it's way out until the threads are flush with the bracket, then grab the bolt with pliers and wiggle it out.

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Originally Posted by 85cj7

Turn the bolt in reverse to back it out, it will work it's way out until the threads are flush with the bracket, then grab the bolt with pliers and wiggle it out.

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yep this. If you can get your impact on it just keep it spinning and push on the end with a drift or something if you can until the threads catch and it will spin right out

I think I explained the situation incorrectly. The bolt is completely wallowed out, when I try to turn it from the other side, it does not go anywhere. I will have to cut it out and replace it.

I have checked rockauto, and I believe this is the right part I need to replace it with.

It is under 1979 Bronco->400->Suspension->Trackbar.

Part number 88913259

Also... gonna need a new radiator

ho reillys has radiators for cheap

What's wrong with your radiator?

Do not put a replacemt radiator in thier if it is smaller the truck won't stay cool. I would personally get one from a junkyard.

I also still don't understand why you can't get the bolt out.

I got my radiator from ho'Reilly's and it is the same size as the old one. Mine was really clogged up and i got it for like $128 so it was cheaper than having it repaired.

Seriously Hp, give me a ****ing break, if you can't get at it with a hammer, do what frick said and take the shock mount off. Its not ****ing hard it just takes time.

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Originally Posted by stx4wheeler

What's wrong with your radiator?

Do not put a replacemt radiator in thier if it is smaller the truck won't stay cool. I would personally get one from a junkyard.

I also still don't understand why you can't get the bolt out.

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Wtf? I have O'Reillys radiators in Pigpen and my crewcab and they are fine. They have the best prices of all the parts stores as well.

"If it is smaller." The radiators in the trucks with m blocks are fawking huge. In gonna assume that the crap orielys has is a plastic tank radiator that is also not the same dimensions of his factory radiator. I fought this problem on big nasty, with having a radiator that was to small.

The radiator on my crewcab is "fawking huge" as well as having plastic tanks and an aluminum core. The plastic tank units are the same size, half the price and work just as well as a brass and copper one. There is a reason the manufacturers have been using them for the last 15 years.

they have plastic tank ones with an aluminum core and one with brass tanks that is exactly like the stock one. I paid for the plastic one and they gave me the brass one:gigem:

Is your rad. you have right now clogged, leaky, or what?

This part number...this is for a bolt?
you know they sell bolts at lowes, home depot, tractor supply, ace, mack, john deere, napa, horeillys, etc etc, right?
This isn't a rice/kraut racer. You can beat on it and use readily available parts.

i envision something similar to the "Its in the computer" scene in Zoolander with Hot Pocket dancing around like a monkey with hammer hitting various parts of the truck.

"Its so simple!"