Random Tech Questions

BDR-
From what I've read, on this car the VATS disables both the fuel pump and the starter. I know that the VATS module was faulty because before we replaced it with out homemade chip, the car would not crank at all. I know that this was the initial problem because the "security" light on the dash gave every indication that it was the VATS module that was faulty. When I turn the key to "on" I can hear the fuel pump being primed. I have checked the relay, and the fuel pump was recently replaced.

Also, when I said the ECM output wire, I did not meant the wire on my homemade chip. I meant the wire that the ECM output connects to. I have read that in order to check the proper functionality of the ECM, this wire should have a voltage reading between 4.5-5 volts... and it does. I have checked the frequency output of everything on my circuit with a multimeter, and I have hit a roadblock.

Run a jumper wire from the battery to the fuel pump so you can take it somewhere to do it right?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV

Run a jumper wire from the battery to the fuel pump so you can take it somewhere to do it right?

---

I'll try the jumper to the fuel relay. As far as taking it somewhere to do it right, :rolleyes:

whatever you are working on is probably too new for that 555 timer crap to work. You mentioned a programmer was too expensive, assuming one exists then you are SOL.

it's a 95 buick regal.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hot Pocket

it's a 95 buick regal.

---

classy. There's plenty of those up in Bryan to pull parts from.... just be sure your packin

What you think your home made circuit will be reliable? Car doc has a tech II

Ok John from car doc and Chet told me this:

Turn the key on and bump the starter (not enough to where it will start)

Leave the key in the on position

Let the light blink, the computer is relearning yourself.

After the light quits blinking (normally takes about 10 min) turn the car on. It's not fixed.

If that doesn't work, do it three more times. If not then you ****ed it up with your wiring.

Tommy, the method you have described is so that the VATS module can relearn the new key. Basically, GM had a variety of different resistors put into their keys, and if the resistor goes bad or the wrong type of key is used, it will alert the VATS system and the system will shut off the fuel pump and the starter. The relearn method is useful if you're trying to program a new key to the VATS, but I took the VATS out, and made my own module.

My module REPLACES the VATS module, and it does not matter what kind of key you use (you can use a screwdriver if you want.) I'll post up some pictures here pretty soon since nobody seems to understand what it is I'm trying to do..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV

What you think your home made circuit will be reliable? Car doc has a tech II

---

And yes, I do. Unlike GM, my circuit is not designed to fail after 5-10 years.

It's designed to fail immediately obviously:flipoff2:

So as it turns out my circuit is backwards, gotta redo this sumbitch and pray for the best

I'm at 50hz, it's just not an inverted signal :facepalm:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hot Pocket

And yes, I do. Unlike GM, my circuit is not designed to fail after 5-10 years.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hot Pocket

So as it turns out my circuit is backwards, gotta redo this sumbitch and pray for the best

I'm at 50hz, it's just not an inverted signal :facepalm:

---

What a ****ing douche!!!!! Drink bleach and die you moron.

Who pissed in your cheerios clarke? :flipoff2:

Tired of hearing/reading your dumbass comments. Speaking for everyone.

Well unless you have anything beneficial to add to solving the problem, please **** off
thanks and :gigem:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RCcola55

Tired of hearing/reading your dumbass comments. Speaking for everyone.

---

Troof.

:laughing:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Fredo

Troof.

---

Of all the dumbass things things HP has commented on or asked questions about, this semi-legit random tech question is where we tell him to die on behalf of everyone? Come on, please do not make me defend him anymore than this:)

I was kind of thinking the same thing, instead of his talk of "bumpin' 12's in the back of his Jetta" he has a legitimate Tech thing to contribute... It was interesting to me.

Wasn't the tech issue, read my quotes, it's his piece of **** attitude the makes hulk angry.

As far as tech, pull the ECM and have it flashed, easy as pie.

Now go back to your pathetic life.

JB and FJaggie, what are you guys doing? Y'all are supposed to bust my balls and make me feel like a retard, not stick up for me! :laughing:

Anyway, here's where I'm at:

In all her beauty...
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...10583918_n.jpg

Here is the faulty TDM, removed
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...28043588_n.jpg

And my homemade bypass...
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...19571322_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...72435485_n.jpg

I've spliced into the relay that connects to the factory TDM, (is the the same thing as the BCM?) You can see a diagram here on this website: http://newrockies.com/installation-i...5-buick-regal/

http://newrockies.ca/wp-content/uplo...location-1.png

I got the instructions for making my module from BDR's link, and have spliced:
the ECM output on my chip to the dark blue wire on the relay.
the 12v cranking input to the pink wire on the relay.
the ground to both the black and yellow/black wires on the relay.

I know my module works, and I have jumped the fuel pump relay and can hear it running. The only thing I can think of is that some computer is keeping the fuel injectors from firing?
There is a pin on the PCM that enables the fuel injectors and connects to the VATS I think, (but am not 100 percent sure) that this is the blue wire on the TDM relay.

I'm lost, and the car will just run for a second and then die. I feel like I'm making progress because before I made the module, it wouldn't crank at all. I feel like I'm close. Someone help me, Flem, you're good at this ****.


EDIT: and clarke, please explain how I'm the douche here... I'm not the one calling people pathetic or telling them to go die, just looking for some advice from some friends that know what they're doing and have probably been in my situation before. I thought that's what the boards are for... well that and making an ass of yourself when youre drunk on the internet :gigem:

Quote:

---

And my homemade bypass...
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...19571322_n.jpg

---

I just like how all the wiring is speaker wires :flipoff2:

Scotchlock mania!!!

I don't think it works in a car that new, there are a lot of 90's electronics in that black box compared to the simple pile of 70s stuff you've put together.

You're also missing a voltage regulator.

Is that your car? WTF, I mean the VW was gay, but that Buick is old man gay!

Not trying to be a dick, but you're crazy if you think that will last for any amount of time. Seriously, just fix it right the first time, I don't know how many wiring **** ups I have had to fix from **** like this. I've finally learned my lesson when it comes to wiring and it's gotten to the point that I am ripping it all out and starting over.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV

Not trying to be a dick, but you're crazy if you think that will last for any amount of time. Seriously, just fix it right the first time, I don't know how many wiring **** ups I have had to fix from **** like this. I've finally learned my lesson when it comes to wiring and it's gotten to the point that I am ripping it all out and starting over.

---

this is where clarke's bronco went to die

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 85cj7

this is where clarke's bronco went to die

---

Troof :gigem:

Tommy has ****ed up lots of ****... I would listen to his retrospective wisdom.

No matter what I do you will tell me its going to the scrap yard.

Haha, it is my roommates car, and yes it's all kinds of "african-american" awesome.. so what would be the solution here?? Get the PCM reprogrammed to just bypass the VATS system altogether? If I tow this sumbitch up to Cardoc, can you reflash it for us on the cheap tum tum?

No, call them

Cardoc is a different company.

Put a rebuild kit on a motorcraft 2bbl and Summit hei distributor in my bronco. Will start up and high idle for about 3 seconds then stumble and die. I cleaned out every fluid passage with brake cleaner, new needle, seat, and float. New power valve and all gaskets too. Float is adjusted to 7/16ths. Ideas? Cant get it to idle down before it shuts off.

vacuum leak

vacuum leak.

edit: didn't see the last page.

Put back on the efi

carbs suck, run tbi. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Seth

carbs suck, run tbi. :)

---

For Tommy.... they both suck :flipoff2: