Yeah, thats it. I knew Thomas would know.
Seriously, chet can fix it, just call him and go to his house tomorrow.
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Yeah, thats it. I knew Thomas would know.
Seriously, chet can fix it, just call him and go to his house tomorrow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
I can fix it too but I don't want to shell out 3k for injectors if I can just replace one.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ONS/loaded.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...IONS/scale.jpg
JB, lets see you try this with your gasser. :flipoff3:
Those are mini tractors. My jeep could tow that:flipoff2:
:laughing: That I would definitely pay to see!
out of curiosity I looked up the weight of that Deere 332. Operating weight is over 10k! Our Gehl CTL 60 is 7300ish. Thats nuts. Slightly bigger machine? Sure, but where is the extra 3k?
Aren't tandem dually trailer axles only rated for 10k?:eek:
Tandem duals trailer is for 20k, but they weigh about 6.5k. That's a couple thousand over on the truck, and over 10,000 over on the trailer. I don't have enough balls to try that with yellow paint, attracts too much attention.
My trailer is 'rated' at 20k, but has 24k worth of axles and weighs in at 7200. I had it built to haul the heavy loads (just didn't know this one was going to be that heavy :eek: ). The truck weighs in at an even 10k with no trailer, so there is about 18k worth just in truck, fuel and trailer.
I won't be hauling both of those machines together with this setup any more, that is way too much even for me. It was pretty cool to see the weigh ticket in person though. :D
I will build one of these when I graduate, except srw and no stack. well maybe a single stack with a tractor flap
you gonna hang out with rowdy and his friends when you graduate
No, he's going to move here to Rosebud and hang out with Kevin Kelly! :laughing:
2006 Chevy 2500HD 2WD.
Trying to change the hub-bearings and I'm confused.
I have the new ones. Timken 580310. And I have the old ones off. They are obviously different. A little help please. The new ones I have look like they are for 4wd b/c of the splined stub shaft hole but I can't find anything that looks like the ones that came off. The old ones have 6A182 137203 J29 printed on them.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03303.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03302.jpg
the new ones you got are for a 4x4
I just found this:
New product info from TIMKEN please read:
Part Number:
SP580310
The subject part number is superseding the SP580304, SP580305, and the SP580306. This supersession is currently being implemented because Timken is the original equipment supplier of the GMT900 system 3 (2008) as well as the original equipment service provider for the GMT800 system 3 (1999-2007). By superseding to this new SP580310 part number, it allows you to utilize newer technologies for the older applications.
The SP580310 hub unit bearing looks very similar to the previous SP580304. The only apparent difference is the Roll Form? on the inboard side of the hub. Note: The SP580310 retro fits back through model year 1999.
NOTE: The SP580310 does look different when compared to the SP580305 and the SP580306. These are front hubs for 2WD applications and do not have a spline. The Roll Form Technology utilized on the SP580310, enables this hub to be used as the front hub unit bearing.
It makes it seem like I have the correct bearing.
does it fit? I think the 2wd and 4x4 are interchangeable
Yes it does fit. But I'm afraid to drive on it. Can anyone else look it up and see if they can find a different bearing for me. I keep finding that SP580310 is correct for my application.
OK!
I feel better!
Designed for either 2WD or 4WD models (commonized splined hub)
Genuine Timken is the original equipment manufacturer of this hub assembly for most 1999-2007 GMT800 trucks including 2008+ GMT900 models.
This is the latest release SP580310 that includes the Timken Roll Form? process on the inboard side of the hub.
Time to go back out in the rain and do the other side.
The roll form is most likely how they have designed the hub to hold itself together without a stub shaft and spindle nut holding it together.
7.3 L powerstroke problem.
I have a pretty good diesel leak, that seems to be coming from the side or bottom of the large round assembly( maybe fuel filter?) that is in the front of the intake valley. It is puddling in the intake so I need to get this fixed ASAP.
Any ideas on what it is? I need to figure this out before Clayton, but im traveling this week and next for work.
it is the fuel filter, there is an o-ring kit you can order off of ebay to reseal the fuel filter, pretty common problem
Yea the drain valve likes to leak. Some reason I think I remember it being a pain in the ass to replace and the valve seemed expensive from Ford, $80 or so at job shop price.
Will ford sell me just the o-rings or the valve and o- rings together? Should I just replace the valve as well since I am in there? it looks like a pretty straight forward fix.
They sell the whole valve. Actually, I think replacing the valve is very easy. Think I remember it being a pain in the ass because I tried to fix it cheap.
Yeah I found a write up online and it looks to be like a 20 minute fix.
The valve/o-rings from Ford is $56 and I need to fix it Friday ASAP when I get back in town so I will probably just go this route.
I did however call a O-ring place that is semi close to the airport and we deal with them at work. They had the Viton O-rings that I would need for 36 cents a piece, but the problem is that I have to buy a min. of $35 to complete a charge account order. This means I would end up with 90 O-rings :rainbow:.
http://www.harborfreight.com/180-pie...kit-67525.html
Never hurts to have an assortment laying around.
That doesn't have the size I am needing. I need a #202, but thanks for the help:flipoff2:
Check auto parts stores. We have a thousand different size o-rings in and organizer thing in the back.
Those aren't viton
I had to fix mine it's simple, it should be 25T torx screw, 4 of them. I should also have the orings, I can mail you a few.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
I have that damn clunk in the steering column that I heard is super common on this era chevy. I also heard that there is a GM service package that comes with grease and plugs and you basically take out the shaft, clean it, and then re-pack it with thicker grease. I called chevy and they said that they don't sell the kit anymore and they just replace the entire intermediate shaft for $100. Anybody out there know what I am talking about? Is it something that I can repair myself or should I just replace it? I can get a Dorman one for $50 or a genuine GM one for $100. I think I would rather just throw down for the GM one. But if it doesn't matter then I can save some cash.
youtube or google chevy steering fix
I know from the amount that I sell that the pitman and idler arms are pretty frequently going out. I probably sell 3 sets a month. If you replace them get moog, their problem solver line normally does pretty well. Moog updates the parts following factory failures and they are muy bueno.
That's what you get for having a bitch ass truck with ifs in the front.
Maybe...can't find any info on what exact size orings are in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...&keyword=80020
edit: actually summit shows the sizes. Looks like there's one -202 per kit. This kit was on the shelf when I was there today.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RN...kness|0.139+in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Both the idler and pitman arms are fine. They are moog replacements and it has the Cognito supports as well (http://dmaxstore.com/index.php?main_...roducts_id=107). It is defiantly in the intermediate shaft. I'm going to try this fix tomorrow http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...r-Chevy-Trucks. It is entirely free and looks like a great idea.
Get the Dorman, it's supposedly a bit better than the OEM GM one. It's supposed to be a 30-45min job, just get the steering wheel lock tool so you don't accidentally twist your steering wheel while it's disconnected and break the clock spring.
In addition to new shocks, that's on my to-do list as well. Damn clunk gets annoying.
mine used to clunk, then it stopped. BTW does anyone else here have the manual AC controls and get the letter about the recall on the blower resistor wiring
didnt get the letter but mine went out. burned up the connector also.
SCARY STUFF.
I was turning into my neighborhood returning from work and heard a huge clunk and the driver front of the truck layed frame!
I limped it two blocks home, jacked it up and crawled underneath it. The driver side, frame end of the torsion arm is no longer connected to the crossmember. The torsion bar and torsion key look fine but the bolt and funky retainer nut were missing. I found them two blocks back in the middle of the road. Here is a pic of what remains.
Crappy GM pot-metal.
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSC03498.jpg
Question is: How do I fix this? I found the GM part numbers for the bolt and retainer nut. I think it is an easy as jacking up the front end and installing the new bolt/nut. The torsion key is still 'keyed' on the torsion arm. So do I have to do any of the 'loading/unloading' of preload like you would if you were installing new keys?
I think I know what I need to do but want to make sure. Let me know what you guys think.
I think I would have died if it broke at 70mph on the highway.
you will have to use a good c-clamp or similar tool to load the key, then just replace to bolt and retainer, then take that uber gay lift off of your 2wd truck and you will be good to go
C clamps will bend. Tire max has bent 3 of them doing it. Rent a balljoint press from advance, its beefy enough to load it.