Yea the drain valve likes to leak. Some reason I think I remember it being a pain in the ass to replace and the valve seemed expensive from Ford, $80 or so at job shop price.
Yea the drain valve likes to leak. Some reason I think I remember it being a pain in the ass to replace and the valve seemed expensive from Ford, $80 or so at job shop price.
Will ford sell me just the o-rings or the valve and o- rings together? Should I just replace the valve as well since I am in there? it looks like a pretty straight forward fix.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
They sell the whole valve. Actually, I think replacing the valve is very easy. Think I remember it being a pain in the ass because I tried to fix it cheap.
Yeah I found a write up online and it looks to be like a 20 minute fix.
The valve/o-rings from Ford is $56 and I need to fix it Friday ASAP when I get back in town so I will probably just go this route.
I did however call a O-ring place that is semi close to the airport and we deal with them at work. They had the Viton O-rings that I would need for 36 cents a piece, but the problem is that I have to buy a min. of $35 to complete a charge account order. This means I would end up with 90 O-rings.
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
http://www.harborfreight.com/180-pie...kit-67525.html
Never hurts to have an assortment laying around.
BDR
That doesn't have the size I am needing. I need a #202, but thanks for the help![]()
He who dies with the most **** wins, after seeing your collection you are in the lead no doubt!
Those aren't viton
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
I have that damn clunk in the steering column that I heard is super common on this era chevy. I also heard that there is a GM service package that comes with grease and plugs and you basically take out the shaft, clean it, and then re-pack it with thicker grease. I called chevy and they said that they don't sell the kit anymore and they just replace the entire intermediate shaft for $100. Anybody out there know what I am talking about? Is it something that I can repair myself or should I just replace it? I can get a Dorman one for $50 or a genuine GM one for $100. I think I would rather just throw down for the GM one. But if it doesn't matter then I can save some cash.
youtube or google chevy steering fix
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
I know from the amount that I sell that the pitman and idler arms are pretty frequently going out. I probably sell 3 sets a month. If you replace them get moog, their problem solver line normally does pretty well. Moog updates the parts following factory failures and they are muy bueno.
That's what you get for having a bitch ass truck with ifs in the front.
Maybe...can't find any info on what exact size orings are in it.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...&keyword=80020
edit: actually summit shows the sizes. Looks like there's one -202 per kit. This kit was on the shelf when I was there today.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RN...kness|0.139+in.
Last edited by mudtoy67; 12-09-2011 at 09:31 PM.
BDR
Both the idler and pitman arms are fine. They are moog replacements and it has the Cognito supports as well (http://dmaxstore.com/index.php?main_...roducts_id=107). It is defiantly in the intermediate shaft. I'm going to try this fix tomorrow http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...r-Chevy-Trucks. It is entirely free and looks like a great idea.
Get the Dorman, it's supposedly a bit better than the OEM GM one. It's supposed to be a 30-45min job, just get the steering wheel lock tool so you don't accidentally twist your steering wheel while it's disconnected and break the clock spring.
In addition to new shocks, that's on my to-do list as well. Damn clunk gets annoying.
'73 J2000 Thriftside Gladiator, 258/T14/D20
'81 CJ7 Laredo, 258/T176/D300