'93 F-150 build

[Sparling]

No, your shop floor was dirty, after I swept I had no problem

[Sparling]

The ttb arm changes 21 degrees at 16" of wheel travel so the ballistic joint with 34 degrees of movement will work fine. Question is, if I go with 1.75" .25 wall tube that limits me to 1" threaded shank on the joint. Is this enough strength? I guess another option is to get the tube threaded to run a larger thread size if need be. Also getting some materials to start working on some sort of swingset steering. Might post up some drawings when I finish them.

[BroncoJo]

Or a heim will work and a 1 inch shank is more than enough.

[RCcola55]

what about welding the joint housing to the tube?

[AggieTJ2007]

I would weld the joint housing to the tube, you don't need the adjustability unless you don't build the arms the same or weld the mounts on square. Much stronger as well

[Sparling]

Back to steering, Travis got me some 1.5" .25 wall DOM for steering. I want to do something real similar to the YJ and Corey 2011 KOH buggy steering setup. It uses 2 idler arms with a relay rod between them and the tie rods mount the same place as the beam does so toe in and bump steer are pretty much gone. Here's some pictures of what he did, but I want to do a single shear setup, no hydro, and strait tie rods.

Also might be ordering cut and turned beams from threat motorsports next week if I can gather some cash. I emailed solo motorsports about their price, but I'm really liking how threat motorsports welds in a new billet piece for the lower balljoint instead of moving the stock one and plating it in.

[StevenAg03]

Back to steering, Travis got me some 1.5" .25 wall DOM for steering. I want to do something real similar to the YJ and Corey 2011 KOH buggy steering setup. It uses 2 idler arms with a relay rod between them and the tie rods mount the same place as the beam does so toe in and bump steer are pretty much gone. Here's some pictures of what he did, but I want to do a single shear setup, no hydro, and strait tie rods.

Also might be ordering cut and turned beams from threat motorsports next week if I can gather some cash. I emailed solo motorsports about their price, but I'm really liking how threat motorsports welds in a new billet piece for the lower balljoint instead of moving the stock one and plating it in.

didnt he start a thread after KOH saying that the steering didnt work like he wanted and he was having a "design contest" to get it figured out?

[Sharpe]

That steering looks unnecesarilly complicated and extremely vulnerable to damage.

[KrazyKarl02]

That steering looks unnecesarilly complicated and extremely vulnerable to damage.

And expensive....

[Sparling]

That steering looks unnecesarilly complicated and extremely vulnerable to damage.

All will be covered by the skid plate in the front bumper. It has to be complicated to get rid of bumpsteer and toe in. Shouldn't cost too much on top of the tube I bought, just another stock pitman arm, a couple of heims and some plate

Does anybody use heims on their steering? I need something with more articulation than the 16 degrees from a regular TRE.

[RCcola55]

I have never heard of anyone using hiems for steering. You will be an innovator in the world of motorsports!

[Sparling]

I don't really want to use heims. I'd rather not innovate tie rod ends, I'm looking at the evo tre's. They look pretty beef at have plenty of movement. Only thing is $$$ for a reamer.


http://www.evojoints.com/Heims_TRE.html

[BroncoJo]

$50-60 for a reamer is your worries? I say go for it, doesn't look to complicated

[Sparling]

The steering worked great, only problem was his full hydro setup was too slow. What happened was he pulled off the road to let somebody pass him, and he hit a stationary boulder that took out one entire side of his steering and eventually ended his race by bending and breaking a hydraulic fitting and PSC was closed so he couldn't get a replacement for it.

[BroncoJo]

Let's keep this on topic