Dana 60 outer axle shaft "slinger"? Needed or no? It fits onto the shaft, but then the seal I typically use won't work then. It is the Ford seal. Do inner spindle seals differ GM v. Ford?
Dana 60 outer axle shaft "slinger"? Needed or no? It fits onto the shaft, but then the seal I typically use won't work then. It is the Ford seal. Do inner spindle seals differ GM v. Ford?
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4
I need help freeing up pistons. I've used penetrating oil, brake cleaner and used DEX/MERC because that's what I had sitting around, but in almost 2 weeks nothing has changed.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
You're an idiot
A little more info about the motor? pull the headds and beat them out? start from scratch?
Seth Stewart '04
2000 Suburban DD
1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
1998 GMC pickup - sold
2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
1975 Scout - TBD
1976 Scout - parts truck
1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
196? Scout 800 - 302 roller
Thanks! You could help me not be an idiot or just call me an idiot, either way is cool with me. I find it funny you're hiding under a new account.
It's a 5.8 and I've got the heads off. I don't care about the pistons I just didn't want to mess the block up at all. I guess I'll try to pull the crank out and try to beat them out of the block with my bfh. This is the block I am using for my stroker motor that will eventually end up in my mustang. The cylinders will be bored .030 over so if the cylinders get messed up a little I guess that's fine.
Last edited by BroncoJo; 06-14-2010 at 09:05 PM.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
What?
How did you plan on hurting the block by knocking out pistons? If the pistons are froze chances are the cylinders will have some pitting. You said you were going to make it a stroker motor so you said you would be boring it .030 over (so light pitting will be no issue here) and changing the crank. The motor needs to come apart regardless, beating the pistons (which you obviously plan on replacing) will in no way "hurt" the block. In some cases the pitting wont clear up even by going .060 over and thus a sleeve would need to be installed. Also, if moisture got to the cylinders chances are moisture got to the mains and rod bearings. They could also be stuck so all the forces combined you would not be able to turn it over by hand. You are an idiot for dicking around with atf, penetrating oil, and brake cleaner for 2 weeks on a motor that needs to be disassembled anyway, which i am willing to bet will never be reassembled and will almost certainly end up as scrap in Bryan Iron.
No one is assuming a false identity under this User Name.
Last edited by Agrob11; 06-14-2010 at 09:33 PM.
This only my second time tearing down an engine and the first time dealing with stuck pistons, so I wanted to make sure I didn't mess the block up at all. My bad for asking about it instead of diving into it. This won't end up at bryan iron and I'm glad that you know me so well you think it will. This isn't ending up in some trashed out off road rig that doesn't matter much so I'm taking my time with it and trying to do everything right.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
I forgive you
Another Robert? Jesus.
'73 J2000 Thriftside Gladiator, 258/T14/D20
'81 CJ7 Laredo, 258/T176/D300
Lemon juice.
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come