Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 60

Thread: Regeaing a dana 35

  1. #1
    Registered User crdub09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    College Station
    Posts
    65

    Question Regeaing a dana 35

    So I am torn between two different routes for my jeep. I will not be wheeling my jeep except to and from trails until I have a secondary vehicle to rely on as a daily driver. Having to rebuild my engine due to a bad engine overheat causing two piston rings and my head gasket to rupture has taught me how valuable a car is when its your daily driver.

    That being said, I need to regear my rear axle... soon. I currently have a dana 35 as my rear and am running 33" tires. It has stock 4.11 gearing and needs 4.88 (4.56 if I6) gearing to be back to stock ratio. The two options I have are to just regear my dana 35 or find a dana 44/ford 8.8/9in and regear that to my liking.

    Since money is a really big issue right now I am leaning more towards just regearing my dana 35 and being done with it for the time being. How bad or good of an idea is this? Keep in mind that I am only running 33" tires on (now stock) 0"s of lift, and will not be going offroad much, if at all.

    Thoughts, concers, opinions..?

  2. #2
    Rock and Roll AggieTJ2007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Headed back to the Big D
    Posts
    6,182
    Quote Originally Posted by crdub09 View Post
    So I am torn between two different routes for my jeep. I will not be wheeling my jeep except to and from trails until I have a secondary vehicle to rely on as a daily driver. Having to rebuild my engine due to a bad engine overheat causing two piston rings and my head gasket to rupture has taught me how valuable a car is when its your daily driver.

    That being said, I need to regear my rear axle... soon. I currently have a dana 35 as my rear and am running 33" tires. It has stock 4.11 gearing and needs 4.88 (4.56 if I6) gearing to be back to stock ratio. The two options I have are to just regear my dana 35 or find a dana 44/ford 8.8/9in and regear that to my liking.

    Since money is a really big issue right now I am leaning more towards just regearing my dana 35 and being done with it for the time being. How bad or good of an idea is this? Keep in mind that I am only running 33" tires on (now stock) 0"s of lift, and will not be going offroad much, if at all.

    Thoughts, concers, opinions..?
    Where are you experiencing the power problem. I wouldn't spend any money on a dana 35. If you power problem is on the highway just run the RPMs up and don't use overdrive
    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    Creighton, you have done stuff with that jeep that would make a goat go "holy ****!"
    Quote Originally Posted by afroman006
    So driving by brail is why your jeep looks the way it does eh?

  3. #3
    Registered User crdub09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    College Station
    Posts
    65
    Quote Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007 View Post
    Where are you experiencing the power problem. I wouldn't spend any money on a dana 35. If you power problem is on the highway just run the RPMs up and don't use overdrive
    Just crawling up my driveway in 1st gear is quite the feat with my gearing the way it is. On the highway I usually stay in 4th gear, switching to 3rd to pass.. only in extreme cases.

  4. #4
    Big Baller 85cj7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    The Big 'D'
    Posts
    3,900
    You never mentioned anything about re-gearing your front. Do you realize that both ratios have to match in order to use 4wd? You can (if your in a real money pickle) just regear the rear and keep the front as is but you would have to remove your front d-shaft, leaving you only with 2wd. I see people selling 8.8s all the time. I would try to find one that already has your 4.88s (and prob. a limited slip or other locker) and just bolt that in. Then spend the money you saved on re-gearing the front to match. Just my two cents.

    This rear is welded so not exactly perfect but this is not that much more than re-gearing both your axles would cost you. http://lsjc.org/board/showthread.php...&highlight=8.8
    Last edited by 85cj7; 05-18-2011 at 09:17 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by jerryg79 View Post
    i dont speak australian.
    Quote Originally Posted by jerryg79 View Post
    seacrest, you are my hero!

  5. #5
    Respek TdmayfieldIV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    3,235
    You want to trade for 31"s?

  6. #6
    Rawr TexTJ209's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Waco, Tx
    Posts
    3,606
    I had 3.07s, 33s and a 3 speeed auto. Quit cryin. And don't waste money on a 35.
    '73 J2000 Thriftside Gladiator, 258/T14/D20
    '81 CJ7 Laredo, 258/T176/D300

  7. #7
    Registered User crdub09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    College Station
    Posts
    65
    Quote Originally Posted by 85cj7 View Post
    You never mentioned anything about re-gearing your front. Do you realize that both ratios have to match in order to use 4wd? You can (if your in a real money pickle) just regear the rear and keep the front as is but you would have to remove your front d-shaft, leaving you only with 2wd. I see people selling 8.8s all the time. I would try to find one that already has your 4.88s (and prob. a limited slip or other locker) and just bolt that in. Then spend the money you saved on re-gearing the front to match. Just my two cents.

    This rear is welded so not exactly perfect but this is not that much more than re-gearing both your axles would cost you. http://lsjc.org/board/showthread.php...&highlight=8.8
    I agree with you in finding a 8.8 or 9inch, its just that Ive been searching all last semester for one, craigslist, ebay, going to junkyards and whatnot, haven't been able to find one worth fixing up without spending more than I can afford or it'll be out of state. Also... I'm trying to keep both front and rear under $1000. I know thats quite a low ceiling, but I know its possible, especially when buying a used ford assembly.

    As far as the front-- I was planning on just removing the front driveshaft just in case, and ill have it in 4x4 so the front ds yoke isnt just floating around. I'd wait a bit longer until I've saved enough for the front gears.

    Quote Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV View Post
    You want to trade for 31"s?
    Hrrrmmm no..? Haha first thing I did when I bought this jeep was buy brand new goodyear MT/R 33x12.50's

  8. #8
    Registered User crdub09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    College Station
    Posts
    65
    Quote Originally Posted by TexTJ209 View Post
    I had 3.07s, 33s and a 3 speeed auto. Quit cryin. And don't waste money on a 35.
    Cool story bro. See I'm doing something about the problem instead of just taking it like a punk

  9. #9
    Big Baller 85cj7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    The Big 'D'
    Posts
    3,900
    If my math is right then you should be right at 3K RPMS when not in overdrive while at 70mph. That seems about right for a 4 cylinder. Overdrive would drop you down to about 2200. Sound about right?
    Quote Originally Posted by jerryg79 View Post
    i dont speak australian.
    Quote Originally Posted by jerryg79 View Post
    seacrest, you are my hero!

  10. #10
    Big Baller 85cj7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    The Big 'D'
    Posts
    3,900
    Well you want to keep it under $1000.
    Break down. . .
    front:
    gears-$150
    set-up kit-$150
    install-$200 (if taken out of vehicle and stripped down) -$350 as is

    rear:
    same deal

    So. . . total=$1000-$1300 for exactly what you have now plus some gearing.
    That link I provided should be looking better and better by the moment.
    Last edited by 85cj7; 05-18-2011 at 09:58 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by jerryg79 View Post
    i dont speak australian.
    Quote Originally Posted by jerryg79 View Post
    seacrest, you are my hero!

  11. #11
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Krazy Krosby
    Posts
    4,169
    My advice, do not waste your money on gears for a 35. Add up the cost of the just the gears, plus you have to buy install kits, plus you have to pay someone to install the gears, that shat adds up!!!

    Take your time, you can find a set of axles (dana 44 and 9") with decent gears if you wait.

    My final point would be 33" tires and 4.11 gears is really not that bad. I know have a lot more tire and less gear.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  12. #12
    Registered User crdub09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    College Station
    Posts
    65
    Quote Originally Posted by 85cj7 View Post
    If my math is right then you should be right at 3K RPMS when not in overdrive while at 70mph. That seems about right for a 4 cylinder. Overdrive would drop you down to about 2200. Sound about right?
    Yea that's almost exact. At that speed and with 120bhp 3K rpm is barely enough to accelerate on a 0 degree grade. I only shift into overdrive when I'm torquing the bolt on my crankshaft

    Quote Originally Posted by 85cj7 View Post
    Well you want to keep it under $1000.
    Break down. . .
    front:
    gears-$150
    set-up kit-$150
    install-$200 (if taken out of vehicle and stripped down) -$350 as is

    rear:
    same deal

    So. . . total=$1000-$1300 for exactly what you have now minus gearing.
    That link I provided should be looking better and better by the moment.
    Very true... I was going to do the install myself, with a master kit in the rear, so just the rear would total $300 + oil. Front could be slightly cheaper if I decided to get new bearings or not, but ill worry about the front later down the road.

    How did you find that offer, btw?

  13. #13
    Registered User crdub09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    College Station
    Posts
    65
    Quote Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02 View Post
    My advice, do not waste your money on gears for a 35. Add up the cost of the just the gears, plus you have to buy install kits, plus you have to pay someone to install the gears, that shat adds up!!!

    Take your time, you can find a set of axles (dana 44 and 9") with decent gears if you wait.
    Honestly, I think this is what I will be doing. Bracketry is the main problem with this route though. I have absolutely no welding skill and am pretty OCD about precision, so I'd want to make sure the brackets are perfect.

    Quote Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02 View Post
    My final point would be 33" tires and 4.11 gears is really not that bad. I know have a lot more tire and less gear.
    I know it's not that bad, but I've been running this gearing for awhile and am getting "dog" tired of it ***. After regearing my old I6 jeep from 3.73 to 4.56 when going up to 34" tires, I almost shat myself I was so surprised of the new torque

  14. #14
    Big Baller 85cj7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    The Big 'D'
    Posts
    3,900
    You mean that d-30/8.8 combo?
    I check LSJC from time to time and know that those guys deal in tj/kj way more than anything else, I just searched their 'for sale' thread. I'm pretty sure registration on their site is free and immediate. You should sign and and start checking them out regularly. Most of those guys are centered around Dallas, so it's not a bad drive.
    Quote Originally Posted by jerryg79 View Post
    i dont speak australian.
    Quote Originally Posted by jerryg79 View Post
    seacrest, you are my hero!

  15. #15
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    2,103
    bracketry should not be a problem with this club, just see if you can do it over a weekend at the dowling garage, i am sure for some beer it can be done, and exact is relative since almost everything has some adjustments built in

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •