Does it handle good on the street?
Does it handle good on the street?
2010 VW Jetta - DD, 5 Banger, 5 Speed, 1000 Watts of sound!!
1979 Ford Bronco Custom - 400/T18/205.. 35" SSRs, 4" lift, Rancho 5000s, 200 watts of sound!!
Should have left the friction modifier out, would grip more.
Don't know HP. Haven't driven it on the street yet.
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Drove all around town today. Brakes are awesome, front cardan joint needs to be rebuilt. Handles awesome, no dw, tracks straight and no vibrations. I got lots of looks.
Getting the front tires put on. Also looking over everything on the lift. Good thing I did, some bolts needed to be tightened.
Looks better with the 37's
Flex sucks with the shocks
Last edited by TdmayfieldIV; 08-27-2011 at 01:52 AM.
Do you think those other red shocks would work better?
Violence, naked force, has settled more issues in history than has any other factor, and the contrary opinion is wishful thinking at its worst. Nations and peoples who forget this basic truth have always paid for it with their lives and freedoms." — Robert Heinlein
Yeah I should try those
good deal tommy, now all you gotta do is shorten that driveshaft and you will be GTG
"Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
"It's not cheating if you pay for it"
Went to bvd and figured out my rear driveshaft. 1410 flange yoke, 1350 yoke on driveshaft, 1350-1410 conversion joint. I would do a 1410 yoke on the driveshaft but they don't make it for a 2.5" tube.
Why are you going with 1410s? You do know they have the same size caps as a 1350 right? If you don't need to angle capacity you're just wasing money. I've only ever run 1350s on Pigpen and never broken a driveshaft joint. I even had a 1310 on the front pinion for a long time and never had any issues.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
Its not that I want them, its that I have to have them. The sterling has a flange on it with a wierd ass bolt pattern that only fits the ford flange yoke, which is 1410.
I talked to bvd again and opted for getting a 1410 slip yoke for it. That way I won't have a conversion joint in case for some insane reason I break the 1410 I can get another one from any parts store.
[QUOTE=TdmayfieldIV;279207]Its not that I want them, its that I have to have them. The sterling has a flange on it with a wierd ass bolt pattern that only fits the ford flange yoke, which is 1410.
QUOTE]
Is it a different flange then what the older sterlings had? mine was a 1350
Ryan Clarke
(214)695-7901
Yes, it's different.
Put the 3g on.
Charge cable is 2 guage wire to a 200 amp breaker to another 2 guage wire to the starter solenoid. Before I was at 12.5 volts at idle, now i'm at 14.5 volts at idle. No more flickering of headlights and I actually saw a performance gain.
It runs alot smoother at idle for some reason, sounds like it did with the carb.
Alternators have been removed from my list of majic boxes that I don't know about. Still remaining are power steering pumps, automatic transmissions and bypass shocks
Fixed it for you.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
Power steering pumps are simple and auto trannies aren't that bad as long as you have a good manual. Wellan TH400s aren't bad, but then again they are probably the 2nd simplest automatic ever made, right after powerglides.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"
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