my 10 has the fronts tinted from the factory(or more likely the dealer) and they match the rears perfect, but its got to be around 20%.....not sure how I could be denied an inspection with that.
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my 10 has the fronts tinted from the factory(or more likely the dealer) and they match the rears perfect, but its got to be around 20%.....not sure how I could be denied an inspection with that.
Sparling just get Colorado plates. No inspection:gigem:
And not be able to buy guns here?
Can anybody with a high angle driveline brake take a picture of the mount and the caliper?
Only handgunsQuote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Did you really buy a mosin? Want to go shoot after big event?
It's looking pretty full!
LMFAO, and Nice!
Again, what the **** were yall pressing in in the door frame? TH400's do not require anything to be pressed together so I'm interested in finding out which part of your trans is going to fail first :flipoff2:
There's a return spring in the middle of the case that needs to be compressed so you can get a bolt in from the bottom and a snap ring around it so it stays in place. I didn't bother buying the tool to do it so a high lift was used to push down on it so I could get the snap ring around it.
First picture is the spring itself and the second is the tool you're supposed to use.
If this transmission doesn't work it's probably going to be the front pump or the solenoid pack. The early E4OD's didn't make enough pressure inside the trans to keep everything from slipping. If everything works alright I'm going to drop the pan again and add an aftermarket valve body for firmer shifts.
that tool looks like it would have been easy to make
thats what it looks like to me tooQuote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
It was even easier not to make it and still get the job done with no problems.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Where's the smiley with the guy eating popcorn? :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Well, it's full, and I don't have any extra parts.
A couple of tips for anybody rebuilding one of these;
Buy the ASTM manual
Make friends with somebody who has the special tools needed for this transmission, it's doable without the tools, but it's probably way easier with them
If the pump won't seat into the case, loosen the bolts holding the pump together, take the seals off of the pump and set it in there, pick it up making sure the 2 halves don't move and tighten the bolts then set it in there again to make sure it seats and then put the seals on and seat it in the case for the last time
Don't rebuild it in your second story apartment
Take pictures of where all the check balls are before you let them all fall out
Don't let anybody tell you it's too hard
When a part has UP on it, it doesn't mean how it would sit when in the truck
Here's 2 write ups with pictures to aid your ASTM manual.
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/projects/e4od/index.htm
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/...3-E4OD-rebuild
I might put it in Saturday but I still have to run some new lines to the cooler and figure out how to mount my temp sensor.
Good deal.:gigem:
on your disc brake axle thing why don't you go buy a late model factory disc brake axle. probably alot cheaper than gettign a drive line brake and a disc conversion....
Metric sucks
find a dodge or chevy axle then
Don't have the speed sensor in it. I'm really not worried about it. It's not a big deal.
Cool, good luck on the trans once its installed!!
The transmission and either a 4 or 6 inch (probably 4) lift will go in this weekend. Next on the list is getting the sterling in and converting the front to 8 lug so I don't need 2 spares. My current driveshaft setup has a slip at the transfer case and a flange at the rear end. The sterling has a 1350 yoke on it so I need a way to get my driveshaft onto the sterling. I can either take the flange off and use a conversion u joint or put a new 1350 tube yoke on the driveshaft and just a regular 1350 u joint on it. Thoughts? The interwebs says there's a few 8 lug 44s at the various junkyards around town so I'm going to get me some parts maybe next week.
Edit: I don't want to do new driveshafts until I get a transfer case with a flange on it, maybe a 1356-1356 doubler
I have run the conversion joint for a long time, no real issues (my issues are with axle wrap). The only thing that sucks is the joint is expensive and most parts stores take a day to get it.
Also on your sterling, make sure it is actually a 1350, mine is a "1330F", a 1350 is wider from cap to cap. A 1330 has the large caps, but is the same width cap to cap as a 1330. Ford did this a lot.
Also, your 1356 to 1356 doubler, you got an extra 1356 for it?
Did you check my pile of drive shafts? There should be a few from 1-ton fords
I read about the weird 1330F u joints that were used, I'm going to go measure the yoke before I order a conversion joint. I don't have another t-case for a doubler, I need to find me one with a yoke or a flange on the back.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Not yet, I'll look.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
Do you happen to know the part number? Spicer doesn't list anything that crosses to 1330F (or 1330spec as they call it), just 1330.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Stolen from the internet, so double check it, if I was at home I could look on the box I have:
To clarify:
joint width dia
1310 3.219 1.062
1330 3.625 1.062
1330f 3.625 1.125
1350 3.625 1.188
I have found
5-1204X = 1330/1330f
5-1203X = 1310/1330f
The F is sometimes replaced with sp.
http://www.actionmachineinc.com/1330...u-joint-2.aspx
16 bucks for a conversion u joint is way less than I thought
Thanks.
I didn't see it before in the parts identification cause I didn't look hard enough.:D
http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?DSD~dedsec~3~
The 5-1204x (aka 5-792x; both cross to precision 434) is the 1310/1330F crossover. Is this what you're using?
According to the identification the 5-1203x is just a plain 1330 joint.:confused2
On a related note, I just realized I've been running the wrong ujoint on my ford 9".:laughing:
edit: got it wrong. 5-1204x is a standard 1330 (3.625 cross 1.062 cap) to 1330F (3.625 cross 1.125 cap) joint.
16 bucks - no shipping;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ap?keyword=434
BTW - if yall are looking to find the non-spicer part number for stuff you can do an interchange search on Federal Mogul's site:
http://www.fme-cat.com/
It will pull up the precision part number, which is the same basic number most parts stores will use.
The ones I found yesterday were around 50 bucks so either way that makes me happyQuote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
That's precision though, they suck dickQuote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
I have run into this before and can not remember what I did. I have purchased the spicer u-joint with no issue. It seems to me that the precision joint I end up getting a cap from another joint, but I'm no u-joint-ologist. When I get home I can look at my boxes.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
Work fine for me. You suck dick.:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
You think that anything that isn't brand name sucks dick. I run cheap **** first and if it doesn't work then I'll get better stuff. Guess how many parts store brand u joints I've broken... I'll give you a hint, it's less than one.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
I've actually run two of the top of the line precision joints and broken both of them.
Your track record of breakage is less than a desirable measure of quality in parts.:laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
I'm good for product testing