16 bucks - no shipping
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ap?keyword=434
16 bucks - no shipping
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ap?keyword=434
BDR
BTW - if yall are looking to find the non-spicer part number for stuff you can do an interchange search on Federal Mogul's site:
http://www.fme-cat.com/
It will pull up the precision part number, which is the same basic number most parts stores will use.
BDR
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
I've actually run two of the top of the line precision joints and broken both of them.
i have gone through many u-joints of varying quality, they key to making a joint last is greasing it if it is needed and not running it at super extreme angles, i was running a 1350 to 1350 shaft at over 30 degrees and couldnt even get a day of wheeling out of a joint
The key is to have superior suspension.
I run house brand u-joints, and I have twisted driveshafts before they failed. Maybe you just suck at putting them in. haha try drinking more next time.
I have never broken a Precision brand u-joint and have way more power and bigger tires than all you bitches. Tommy, your **** is ****ed, that's why you break them.
On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"