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Thread: '93 F-150 build

  1. #511
    Dead or alive... mudtoy67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparling View Post
    http://www.actionmachineinc.com/1330...u-joint-2.aspx

    16 bucks for a conversion u joint is way less than I thought
    16 bucks - no shipping

    http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ap?keyword=434
    BDR

  2. #512
    Dead or alive... mudtoy67's Avatar
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    BTW - if yall are looking to find the non-spicer part number for stuff you can do an interchange search on Federal Mogul's site:

    http://www.fme-cat.com/

    It will pull up the precision part number, which is the same basic number most parts stores will use.
    BDR

  3. #513
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudtoy67 View Post
    The ones I found yesterday were around 50 bucks so either way that makes me happy
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  4. #514
    Respek TdmayfieldIV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudtoy67 View Post
    That's precision though, they suck dick

  5. #515
    Like my rock crawler? KrazyKarl02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudtoy67 View Post
    The 5-1204x (aka 5-792x; both cross to precision 434) is the 1310/1330F crossover. Is this what you're using?
    I have run into this before and can not remember what I did. I have purchased the spicer u-joint with no issue. It seems to me that the precision joint I end up getting a cap from another joint, but I'm no u-joint-ologist. When I get home I can look at my boxes.
    -Karl
    2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
    1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
    1965 Chevelle
    1975 Corvette

  6. #516
    Dead or alive... mudtoy67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV View Post
    That's precision though, they suck dick
    Work fine for me. You suck dick.
    BDR

  7. #517
    Resident Ricer Sparling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV View Post
    That's precision though, they suck dick
    You think that anything that isn't brand name sucks dick. I run cheap **** first and if it doesn't work then I'll get better stuff. Guess how many parts store brand u joints I've broken... I'll give you a hint, it's less than one.
    '91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat

  8. #518
    Respek TdmayfieldIV's Avatar
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    I've actually run two of the top of the line precision joints and broken both of them.

  9. #519
    Dead or alive... mudtoy67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV View Post
    I've actually run two of the top of the line precision joints and broken both of them.
    Your track record of breakage is less than a desirable measure of quality in parts.
    BDR

  10. #520
    Respek TdmayfieldIV's Avatar
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    I'm good for product testing

  11. #521
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    i have gone through many u-joints of varying quality, they key to making a joint last is greasing it if it is needed and not running it at super extreme angles, i was running a 1350 to 1350 shaft at over 30 degrees and couldnt even get a day of wheeling out of a joint

  12. #522
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    The key is to have superior suspension.

  13. #523
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    I run house brand u-joints, and I have twisted driveshafts before they failed. Maybe you just suck at putting them in. haha try drinking more next time.

  14. #524
    Tommy sucks Sharpe's Avatar
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    I have never broken a Precision brand u-joint and have way more power and bigger tires than all you bitches. Tommy, your **** is ****ed, that's why you break them.
    On the 8th day god created the Super Swamper TSL and said "go forth and kick ass"

  15. #525
    Registered User robertf03's Avatar
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    I broke a precision 1300 u joint
    ...

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