thats how a summer project should be. ready to sell me those tires for my imaginary scout for 100 bucks?
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thats how a summer project should be. ready to sell me those tires for my imaginary scout for 100 bucks?
looks good nice flex too what is going to break first?
tummys patience
:D:gigem::DQuote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0140.jpg
bad news under the rear diff cover. Good thing i'll be putting gears and bearings in there soon, these ones are probably toast. That was the worst smelling gear oil I have ever smelled.
I'm glad I didn't just check if it had fluid in it. I sprayed it all out with brake cleaner and filled it with fresh gear oil+friction modifier for the limited slip.
Does it handle good on the street?
Should have left the friction modifier out, would grip more.
Don't know HP. Haven't driven it on the street yet.
Drove all around town today. Brakes are awesome, front cardan joint needs to be rebuilt. Handles awesome, no dw, tracks straight and no vibrations. I got lots of looks.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0141.jpg
Getting the front tires put on. Also looking over everything on the lift. Good thing I did, some bolts needed to be tightened.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0144.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0143.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0148.jpg
Looks better with the 37's
Flex sucks with the shocks
Do you think those other red shocks would work better?
Yeah I should try those
good deal tommy, now all you gotta do is shorten that driveshaft and you will be GTG
Went to bvd and figured out my rear driveshaft. 1410 flange yoke, 1350 yoke on driveshaft, 1350-1410 conversion joint. I would do a 1410 yoke on the driveshaft but they don't make it for a 2.5" tube.
Why are you going with 1410s? You do know they have the same size caps as a 1350 right? If you don't need to angle capacity you're just wasing money. I've only ever run 1350s on Pigpen and never broken a driveshaft joint. I even had a 1310 on the front pinion for a long time and never had any issues.
Its not that I want them, its that I have to have them. The sterling has a flange on it with a wierd ass bolt pattern that only fits the ford flange yoke, which is 1410.
I talked to bvd again and opted for getting a 1410 slip yoke for it. That way I won't have a conversion joint in case for some insane reason I break the 1410 I can get another one from any parts store.
[QUOTE=TdmayfieldIV;279207]Its not that I want them, its that I have to have them. The sterling has a flange on it with a wierd ass bolt pattern that only fits the ford flange yoke, which is 1410.
QUOTE]
Is it a different flange then what the older sterlings had? mine was a 1350
Yes, it's different.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0152.jpg
Put the 3g on.
Charge cable is 2 guage wire to a 200 amp breaker to another 2 guage wire to the starter solenoid. Before I was at 12.5 volts at idle, now i'm at 14.5 volts at idle. No more flickering of headlights and I actually saw a performance gain.
It runs alot smoother at idle for some reason, sounds like it did with the carb.
Alternators have been removed from my list of majic boxes that I don't know about. Still remaining are power steering pumps, automatic transmissions and bypass shocks
Fixed it for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Power steering pumps are simple and auto trannies aren't that bad as long as you have a good manual. Wellan TH400s aren't bad, but then again they are probably the 2nd simplest automatic ever made, right after powerglides.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0153.jpg
Officially done. The limited slip still works, almost flopped it on the rti ramp. Does good donuts, but the gears suck.
Thats the stock bronco top end, shortened 3 inches, 1410 slip yoke, 1410 joint, 1410 flange.
I also bought a spare 1410 joint and 1350-1330 joint. All I need now is a couple spare 1330's and i'll be good to go.
The BRT guys told me it would be a good idea to have additional lighting for the event.
http://thejeephut.com/hid-off-road-f...e-p-28264.html
Anyone heard anything about these? Seem like a good deal for $225.
For even cheaper you can get these...
http://www.amazon.com/Pilot-Performa...5371276&sr=8-2
and a 55w JDM kit
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Ap...Raptor-HID-Kit
hids for under a hundred bucks
Hf halogen driving lights. $20.00 for 4
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0169.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0167.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0165-1.jpg
Nice!
Placement on front don't seem like they are putting the light where they will help you see. At the least they will be good work lights I guess.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0172.jpg
The rear
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0171.jpg
I actually used heat shrink, looks alot better
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0174-1.jpg
front
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0173.jpg
each side wired to its own switch
I'm going to find a new place to put the front lights. They're not bad at the moment because they put out alot of light so the light bounces around and illuminates under the front axle pretty well, but compared to the rear they suck.
On another note, **** the price of these gears. JBG is the cheapest place, but still over $700 after shipping and tax.
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...ring-kits.html
hf lights arent a new trick. please tell me that rats nest isn't jammed into the fuse block.
thats not bad for both axles. got to pay to play. one ton **** isn't cheap dumb tum.
I have an external fuse block. Each side is ran through it's own 30 amp fuse and run to it's own switch.
Do you have a the switch going to a relay? if not the switch will burn before the fuse does (unless you bought som baddude switches)Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
The switches came with the lights. I doubt they pull more than 20 amps.
well that's good. same as what I got, except mine is behind the cluster.
its cheap china crap. you think they care if their switch causes your **** to burn down? relays are your friend. go snag caddy relays from the junkyard. they have weatherpack connectors on them. all of my **** is set up for relays.
btw, 60 swap looks good. its all down hill now.
If you don't use a relay the switches melt with the current pulled from the lights.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
ok please learn me how to wire relay's
look at the top of the relay to get the pin #'s
30 should be what you are controlling, could be source or out depending on what you are doing. 85 and 86 are the coil that controls the relay, one should be + and the other -. 87 is the normally open side, usually you use this. 87a is the normally closed side, its the middle prong. not all relays have this
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0181.jpg
Planning a switch panel to replace the old center section. I'll make it out of some thin stainless or aluminum. Safety switches for the Fuel, Ignition and winch. Master on off switch and switches with the rubber boots on them and open indicator lights on all of them. I'm going to really get into my wiring soon. It is getting to the point that it's a fire hazard. So i'll have relays going to all of the single switches.
Rewired the check engine light after the near fire at k2. Put a new light in there that hasn't been crushed by a rotor so it works.
Went through all of the under the dash wiring and made it alot safer. Also a new alt belt.
put the tester on the bronco at work today. 925 cca out of the 880 cca battery, 14.2v at idle without load, 14.1v at idle with all of my lights and my heater on. 42mv ripple, 730ms starter time.
Since I am posting in a public section, I heard about some kids back in the day that used to make such a switch out of the back of a stop sign or street sign, it is all shiney on the back.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
If those are 55w cheap lights, a pair makes 110w so less than 10 amps. Not sure why they supply a 30 amp fuse and 18ga wire. I use a 20 amp fuse on them, and 14 ga wire. The setup they supply those with does burn before the fuse, actually burns even if nothing goes wrong.