i figured it was something to that extent but i couldnt quite remember
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i figured it was something to that extent but i couldnt quite remember
how much of a difference are we talkin here? 4.53 vs. 4.56 or something of the like? Less than ~5% shouldn't ever be a problem on the trail, and if you drive it in 4wd on the road and http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1.../GIFS/nuke.gif something you are just a dummy. ;)
Speaking of http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1.../GIFS/nuke.gif, has BDR got turned back on yet or do I get to keep calling him a queen? :flipoff2:
some dodges came stock with 4.11 rears and 4.10 fronts.
Has anyone seen or read if you can take parts from a fixed yoke ford np208 and convert the chevy slip yoke 208 to a fixed yoke? Links would be sweet if you know of some.
Parts from a dirt cheap NP218 might work. I know a guy...
yes it will work, u can also use a fsj 208 that are all fixed yoke. so is dodge
So apparently they do make drivers side 60 balljoint knuckles already machined for a high steer arm....
http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart...gory=9#details
It is odd that the description says for Chevy and Dodge, but I think that just means that I would need to run Chevy outers (spindles/hubs/rotors) I think that the ball joint part would still mesh with my Ford 60 inner knuckles.
ANyone else know if anyone is making a balljoint drivers knuckle that could utilize the Ford outers? Though if I ran Chevy outers, I could bum outer shafts from Sharpe and Colman......
The internals *should* be identical. swap out the main shaft and tail housing (slip yoke housing).
or find a FSJ NP208 and swap out the input shaft, which would be much easier.
but i take it you have both, so... why dont you tear them apart and do a detailed write up for us? :flipoff2:
That's the problem I sold all of my ford 208's before I bought my house so now I actually have to buy one to see if this works .
One last question before I go buy one and play lego's with t-cases. I have never been inside a chain drive t-case so this may be a dumb question, but is the front input attached to the mainshaft/tailshaft or are you able to change the input so that you can get the right spline count for your trans.
I don't think ford ever used 32 spline inputs so I would need to swap my chevy 32spline input onto the ford mainshaft correct?
the input and mainshaft are independent of each other. look a few pages back and you'll see the pics i posted of the 231/241 swap nonsense i did. the planetary separates them. If i was able to do it, you shouldn't have any problems figuring it out.
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showpost...postcount=1278
you'll have to take both cases all the way apart. once you tear one apart, it becomes self explanatory, relatively simple design.
did ford ever use anything beside 31 spline?
Ford NP208 for $50 in spring:
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1684171450.html
Yeah I called the guy and try to go pick it up today after work. Thanks for the info Tyler.
the fsj 208 is drivers drop so it wouldn't work with his chevy to swap inputs but the fixed yoke will still swap
did a little bit more reading. the fixed yoke might not have the exact same holes drilled in the case as the rear as the slip yoke. so you might have to reowrk it some. but it is doable.
maybe find a NP208D then? that would be pass drop and fixed yoke. i think there is one up by waco.
I called Solid. The price of $460 is for a pair of ball joint knuckles machined and ready for their hi-steer arms ($250/pair) But I would need to find 2 Chevy 60 outers(would prob just buy some 35 splines and drive flanges), get new Ford balljoints, Chevy hubs/rotors, bearings, and new bolt on style brake calipers from a later model 94-97ish F350. After all that, I would need to redo my d-link, and tie rod for the 10th time, and remount my ram, which would include redoing my lines.
Alot of work and money, but its what my 60 needs. Also contemplating some Alcans or some Chevy 52s up front and redoing my low hanging shackle mount.
Where on here did I see a link for a splined shaft source? We have a need for some on the X2.
pigpen's thread
Is a flex fan a good or bad idea?
1. On my cj there is only about .5" gap between my rad and the fan clutch. Ditching the clutch set up would net me a few inches of space which i could use to move the engine forward to gain an inch or two for rear drive shaft (cj5= really short)
2 My engine temp gets up to around 210-215 while crawling/ idleing for extended periods of time (goes right back down when i start to travel faster) so i was thinking the flex fan might move more air at the the lower rpms?
I know I could go with an electic fan but i like that a mechanical fan is simple and reliable plus cheap. So has anyone used a flex fan on their rig?
Example: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4918
my cj didn't have a fan clutch and the radiator still hit the fan a few times.
Do you have a fan shroud? That really makes a big difference.
If it doesn't get over 210-215 I'm not seeing the problem?
Flex fans need rpm to move a good amount of air. How old is your fan clutch? From what I've read a stock fan with a good clutch should pull a lot more air, especially at idle, than a flex fan. You can also look into stock fans from other vehicles. I'm pretty sure I've read about a fan swap before where someone found a fan with more blades from a cadillac or something and swapped it in.
I would go ahead and go with an electric. Seems the jeepers are always ruining a good radiator when the fan gets into it. Just not much room under the hood.
taurus or mark vii
if you get taurus make sure you get the 2 speed as the motor is smaller and go ahead and grap a fan controller out of a volvo while you are at it
I am hoping to try and gain some space between my fan (clutch) and the radiator while possibly helping the engine stay a little cooler. I know 215 isnt causing any immediate damage but when im turning higher rpms the engine stays around 190 so I figured a flex fan might help both issues....
The mark vii fan has weird mounting brackets and will require you to get a bigger alternator. At least I had to on big nasty. Though it was by far the most awesome e-fan I have ever had.
The fan clutch has been on the jeep since i have had it (8 years) for all i know its original.
I thought the idea of a flex fan is that it moves more air at lower rpms and less air as rpms increase and the blades flatten out?
I would really prefer to ditch the clutch. I was hoping a flex fan would be a good option but if it wont be able to do as good as the stock set up than electric would be my next choice. thanks for the advise
ford contour fans are the way to go, they kick taurus fans a$$. look in my build thread