I like it. Tempted to have one cut for my white truck and just fig out a mount. I dont think I would want the reciever tube though. Would it fit a 9500 or 8274?
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I like it. Tempted to have one cut for my white truck and just fig out a mount. I dont think I would want the reciever tube though. Would it fit a 9500 or 8274?
Looking at Warns website, it looks like it would fit the 8274 with the roller inside the bumper and the motor sticking through the top, and the 9500 looks like it would fit if you dropped it down a bit behind the bumper. The front plate on the bumper is 8" tall with another 2" below that where the receiver sticks through and the 9500 is 9" tall according to one website I found it on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
I got some extra wheels for my truck and I was thinking beadlocks, and looking around I found this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEO-54-500023/
It's far cheaper than any other kit I've found, but the beadlock ring looks cheap and it only has 16 bolts per wheel. Thoughts on this kit?
I wouldn't. For a 15" wheels I think the norm is 32 bolts
those dont look like they would hold up getting beaten offroad, they are made for race cars
i got mine for under 200 shipped and they are 32 bolt, 1/4 thick
I need help. I just went to go start my truck, and it started fine, but when I turned on the lights, it died. Didn't even try to stay running. so I started it back up and turned on the parking lights and it stays running but won't rev up above around 2k RPMs, and when you turn the right blinker on the idle pulses with the blinker. I need to get this fixed or I'm not taking it to gilmer. Any ideas? It was way too cold to stand around and try to figure it out.
Edit: Truck runs perfectly fine when the lights are off.
voltage regulator in the alternator? Just an educated guess. Wait until flem or someone electric savy gets on line and has a better suggestion.
got a voltmeter? it sounds like the alternator is fooked. mud does that.
I left mine in San Antonio, but I'll go get a cheap one. Where should I check and what voltages should I be looking for?Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
This is all new to my truck today. I've driven it at night since soggy bottom and had no problems. I was thinking that the snow had something to do with it. My truck has never had a dead battery or died from anything before.
looks like an alternator will run you $115-$150. OUCH!
I would offer you my alternator on the jeep to see if that would fix your problem, but our 302s have different alternators I have the 3 wire later mustang alternator, 120amp if I remember. You have the standard 90 amp.
Thanks for the thought. I just bought it last fall so I'm going to see if Autozone will cover it under warranty .Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
ive had autozone warranty parts several years old that have come with trucks ive bought. no big deal. if not, take it over to BCS alternator over off 23rd in bryan. good guys.
Your truck should have a "volt" gauge on the dash (even if it is an xl and not the pimpin' tach dash). Sit in your truck, turn the key to "on" without the engine running. Start your truck, during cranking the voltage will go down. Once the engine is running your voltage gauge should increase slightly, about an 1/8".Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
If the gauge increases with the engine running, than more than likely your alternator is working. If it does not increase or it goes down, then more than likely your alternator is crap. The stock alternator on your truck is crap, it is like 85 amps, things like a winch, high performance radio or extra lights will take that alternator and skull **** it. There is a sweet upgrade that I have done, I'll see if I can find the link, at any rate 94 up trucks (I think) have a 150 amp or something alternator or like Ryan the mustang one is a bad dood.
Of course, if you have a warranty thru vato zone for free, I think we all know what to do....
Here is where I upgraded, FYI, the klogger engine was originally a 1990 302.
my engine is a 90 H.O. 302 so it came with the sh*tty alternator as well. I have the same alternator as the klogger. Agreed worthwhile ugrade, but if you can get a free one go for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
For those without fancy tools such as a $3 multimeter, I present an easy way to tell if the alternator is working.
Find something metal that will attract a magnet, something like a wrench or screwdriver. With the vehicle running, stick it to the bearing on the back of the alternator. If it sticks, alternator is working. If no sticky, no worky.
You have a truck motor? I thought yours was a mustang with a mass air?Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
it is. 302 H.O. from GT 90 mustang. so yes it is mass airQuote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
or when its running, take the pos batt cable off. If it stays on the alternator is running, if not its not
That doesn't work on EFI.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Actually it does....Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
The computer needs a closed circuit to work, so when you disconnect the battery it shuts off whether you have a good alternator or a bad one. That's what I was told at least.
Optimas have smaller posts and sometimes do this trick for you. I can say that YJ's, CJ's, F150s, and Land Rovers all are capable of running with the battery disconnected at either post.
ask him how he knows....
The computer needs a negative battery pole (a place for everything to tie into) for the ground to tie into, if you have bad battery connections what Flem was talking about can happen. But like Flem said you can remove the battery from a running EFI vehicle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
I don't get the "won't rev over 2k" part...this isn't a drive by wire... Maybe something like a weak alternator combined with a bad coil or ecm just barely getting the voltage it needs to run, and not enough to put out a bigger high-rpm spark?
and for the record, disconnect the positive post on a 350 vortec-equipped pickup or tahoe and the truck will shut off
I went to autozone and they gave me a new alternator even though my old one passed the test. I put the new one on, and still had the problem. Then I checked the headlights and the passenger headlight was barely working so i pulled it out of the housing and turned the headlights on, and the problem was gone. So something in the headlight was causing the engine to die when you turned the headlights on, I'm guessing too much condensation inside the headlight housing or a loose wire somewhere, but either way, the problem is gone and the truck runs fine now.
bad grounds make things act funny
glad you got it fixed, and you got a newer alternator out of the deal.
I went on the trip to BMRA this weekend, and had tons of fun and my truck, yet again, surpassed my expectations. I only incurred minor body damage. But my transmission is getting really worn out. When accelerating from a stop the truck shakes a lot, an flip flops between first and second gear a lot, but once I get up to highway speed, everything seems pretty smooth. Sound like time to look into rebuilding the E4OD?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...t+juggy&page=9
here is some bad ass TTB stuff
those are some pretty good deals plus you could rebuild your current trans and learn how to rebuild an automatic transmission
filter/fluid change? I had the e4od in my white truck rebuilt by oliver brothers, not cheap, so if you can avoid it anyway i would. John brown has a good trans guy if it comes down to it.
Had the filter and fluid replaced last fall. Old enough to need replacing? It has had about 3500 miles since.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
prob not, but who knows. you did mention it is a high mile truck, any idea on the history of it? also, did they drain the torque converter also? might be worth draining it completely and refilling, making sure you run the right fluid, and throw in a bottle of lucas just for grins.
Since it sounds like you're fully prepared to beat this thing into an unrecognizable wad, maybe put some trick shift in it? Oughta make those bands a little stickier
I just put a full bottle of the lucas shift improver stuff in right before the trip last weekend. I bought the truck at a u-pull-it yard that was selling it as a "builder", but the only things i did to it were put a new pan/gasket/filter/fluid in for the transmission, and a few sensors with some new spark plugs. The reason for the new pan was because they picked my truck up with a forklift and FUBARed the original pan and it wouldn't let the transmission shift out of park. I know they did burnouts with it at the yard before i bought it because that's how they knew that the 4x4 was working. Otherwise I'm pretty sure that the PO used it as a business vehicle with lots of highway driving. There was a hands free setup installed and lots of wear on the drivers seat, makes me think a grossly overweight person owned it.
So basically, you can take a D50 TTB and it has a 9" carrier and you can use all D60 outer stuff? That seems like it would be pretty dang strong. Does D60 have the same bolt pattern as a Sterling axle? I'm thinking find a D50 TTB to strengthen up and use for the front and use a Sterling axle in the rear, put lockers in both and stay with about 35" tires, maybe 37's. That should hold up right?Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
To tell you the truth i would make your truck run well before i started doing all of this stuff to the axles.
1. fix trans
2. fix electric ****
3. lift
4. tires
Then do the axle stuff. You need to do things to make it work at the current level of modification before you add any more