Not unless you like winding your **** out to 5k rpm
Not unless you like winding your **** out to 5k rpm
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
There's a lot of people talking out of their ass in this thread. Thanks for pointing it out.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Here's the one you need. This is on a chassis dyno, not an engine dyno. Where is the ecoboost torque at 2k rpms where you will more likely be cruising at?
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Oh please keep telling me all about chassis dyno's, enlighten me oh enlightened one. Point is you said winding it out to 5K rpms, The ecoboost has a fairly flat torque curve starting with 90% of it's torque between 2500-3000 rpm's (depending on the dyno). It is at least 50 ft lbs at the wheels above the 5.0 at 3K rpms, that is very acceptable when mashing the skinny pedal. There is no "winding it out" imo.
The ecoboost is lots of fun in the explorer sport. The truck just feels like a regular v8 to me. I don't recall ever driving the 5.0 so I can't speak to that.
Jonathan Tate
361.676.6466
2010 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 MegaCab
2004 Jeep TJ
1992 Jeep YJ
2008 Jeep JKU
2013 Ford Explorer Sport (mama's go fast car)
Who said anything about being enlightened? You posted a graph that means nothing in the real world. What the truck gets to the wheels is important. So I exaggerated a bit, so what. My point stands that at cruising rpm, the ecoboost doesn't make the torque that makes the difference between it and the 5.0 which means you're going to either give it more pedal than the 5.0 to do a small speed increase which means its either going to take longer to do the same thing or its going to downshift, and then upshift again once you let off. I dont know about you but i hate my truck downshifting on hills just to maintain speed.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Then a chassis dyno means nothing either.
From my experience ( several thousand miles in a 5.0 and a few test drives in a ecoboost )
The 5.0 down shifts all the time which makes me hate the 6 speed transmission.
The ecoboost can handle the passing lane without downshifting.
And that is the main reason I was leaning towards ecoboost.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
I don't think I got screwed on my trade. I traded in a 2013 Ford Raptor, and They gave me $1800 less than what I bought it for new. I only had it for 10 months and I thought that was a VERY fair amount of depreciation and kick in the shorts for changing my mind so quick on the vehicle. I was very pleased with how it kept it's value, and I ended up not having to pay any money at all for my new truck, win win for me.
I understand the point you are trying to make, but there is a single flaw in your posts and that is your reliance on what the vehicle puts to the wheels, or rather "chassis dyno's". All Dyno's read different, even dyno's of the same brand if they are calibrated differently. The graph you posted is a great comparison of the two trucks if they were run back to back on the same dyno (which I assume they were) with the same weather conditions. The chart you reference is a good comparison, but the ecoboost still makes 10% more torque, which is what will effect a "butt dyno".
Last edited by FJAggie07; 07-10-2014 at 06:53 PM.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
Strange they did all that work and did not swap in Raptor seats or the 4wd selector
92 YJ
04 F-150 4x4
11 F-250 4x4