I like it. Tempted to have one cut for my white truck and just fig out a mount. I dont think I would want the reciever tube though. Would it fit a 9500 or 8274?
I like it. Tempted to have one cut for my white truck and just fig out a mount. I dont think I would want the reciever tube though. Would it fit a 9500 or 8274?
Seth Stewart '04
2000 Suburban DD
1995 F150 SAS - Needs more work to sell
1998 GMC pickup - sold
2003 Yukon XL - wrecked/motor donor
1975 Scout - TBD
1976 Scout - parts truck
1972 IH 1310 dually - TBD
196? Scout 800 - 302 roller
Looking at Warns website, it looks like it would fit the 8274 with the roller inside the bumper and the motor sticking through the top, and the 9500 looks like it would fit if you dropped it down a bit behind the bumper. The front plate on the bumper is 8" tall with another 2" below that where the receiver sticks through and the 9500 is 9" tall according to one website I found it on.
I got some extra wheels for my truck and I was thinking beadlocks, and looking around I found this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEO-54-500023/
It's far cheaper than any other kit I've found, but the beadlock ring looks cheap and it only has 16 bolts per wheel. Thoughts on this kit?
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
I wouldn't. For a 15" wheels I think the norm is 32 bolts
those dont look like they would hold up getting beaten offroad, they are made for race cars
i got mine for under 200 shipped and they are 32 bolt, 1/4 thick
Red 81 CJ5, 35's, 4.10 and detroit, 4 to 1 dana 300, tbi efi, flat belly, cage, chromos and auzzie in front... sometimes runs. body damage to come
I need help. I just went to go start my truck, and it started fine, but when I turned on the lights, it died. Didn't even try to stay running. so I started it back up and turned on the parking lights and it stays running but won't rev up above around 2k RPMs, and when you turn the right blinker on the idle pulses with the blinker. I need to get this fixed or I'm not taking it to gilmer. Any ideas? It was way too cold to stand around and try to figure it out.
Edit: Truck runs perfectly fine when the lights are off.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
voltage regulator in the alternator? Just an educated guess. Wait until flem or someone electric savy gets on line and has a better suggestion.
got a voltmeter? it sounds like the alternator is fooked. mud does that.
...
I left mine in San Antonio, but I'll go get a cheap one. Where should I check and what voltages should I be looking for?
This is all new to my truck today. I've driven it at night since soggy bottom and had no problems. I was thinking that the snow had something to do with it. My truck has never had a dead battery or died from anything before.
Last edited by Sparling; 02-23-2010 at 09:40 PM.
'91 Bronco 351w, ZF5, D44 TTB, 9" rear swap with disk brakes, 37" toyos, method wheels, mastercraft seats, A/C and heat
looks like an alternator will run you $115-$150. OUCH!
I would offer you my alternator on the jeep to see if that would fix your problem, but our 302s have different alternators I have the 3 wire later mustang alternator, 120amp if I remember. You have the standard 90 amp.
Last edited by 85cj7; 02-23-2010 at 09:43 PM.
ive had autozone warranty parts several years old that have come with trucks ive bought. no big deal. if not, take it over to BCS alternator over off 23rd in bryan. good guys.
Your truck should have a "volt" gauge on the dash (even if it is an xl and not the pimpin' tach dash). Sit in your truck, turn the key to "on" without the engine running. Start your truck, during cranking the voltage will go down. Once the engine is running your voltage gauge should increase slightly, about an 1/8".
If the gauge increases with the engine running, than more than likely your alternator is working. If it does not increase or it goes down, then more than likely your alternator is crap. The stock alternator on your truck is crap, it is like 85 amps, things like a winch, high performance radio or extra lights will take that alternator and skull **** it. There is a sweet upgrade that I have done, I'll see if I can find the link, at any rate 94 up trucks (I think) have a 150 amp or something alternator or like Ryan the mustang one is a bad dood.
Of course, if you have a warranty thru vato zone for free, I think we all know what to do....
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette
Here is where I upgraded, FYI, the klogger engine was originally a 1990 302.
-Karl
2006 Chevy K3500 4X4 - No J.B. Weld on it yet!
1982 thru 94 F-Series "The Klogger" AKA Transport on the road, on the trail, or on the trailer!
1965 Chevelle
1975 Corvette